Search results

The more forward you can move it, the better it is...even just a couple feet will help.

Bow is where I'm placing both the TM Battery and the 'house' battery. Long as they're secured down so they don't go flying, no issues with a battery (or more) up front.

Ya, I've got an 'ancient' Dremel 245-5 that I still use quite often. With the foot-control for speed adjustments, the flexible shaft extension, the router base and the 'micro' drill press it's very versatile.

That's pretty typical of BC grade plywood. it's used for underlayment on exterior/interior walls when you're putting something over it...hence the imperfections. Since I'll be carpeting all the wood I'm putting in the F-9...I don't care about the imperfections.

Even then, you could rivet down longitudinal runners closer together...then even 1/2" would suffice...would only raise the floor by 1.0625" using 1/16" 1x1 angle. I'm going with 5/8" in the F-9....belt and suspenders kind of guy.

Marine grade just uses a better grade of pine for the interior layers - Western Larch and Douglas Fir are the two most common. 'Hardwood' plywood is just sheathed (top layers) in hardwood...rest is pine. Yes, the BC plywood at HD is exterior rated...still seal it - either Spar Urethane or Epoxy.

Oil based, exterior grade Spar Urethane. BTW: BCX plywood is only $54 a sheet here for 3/4" - marine grade 3/4" is $128....if you're covering it, properly sealed BCX will last for years. Marine grade is mainly used where it'll be stained and visible.

This is my plan for the F-9 rebuild. 5/8" BCX, sealed with oil-based Varathane and carpeted...total cost is under $150

Ya - Minnesota is the same way. If they say 10hp limit...they mean total hp. If they suspect you've 'souped up' your motor...they'll test it...and fine you if it produces more than what's labeled.

Good idea if your recycling center allows 'take-outs' - none of ours does.

I'd go the template route myself... 5-sheets of 3' x 4' corrugated cardboard for $32 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D274EBS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details The 'box' they came in gives you two more for a total of 7 sheets. That's what I'm using for templates in my build.

Drain for the tank - https://thmarinesupplies.com/collections/plumbing-drain/products/all-purpose-drains-hatch-drains - ADP-290F-DP Strainer for over the drain - https://thmarinesupplies.com/collections/plumbing-drain/products/aerator-filter Aerator head -...

I know - I kind of based my 'slap together' system off their kit Difference...I'm on a limited budget and their full kit is $300+ I put together all the parts for this for under $100 - and it's mainly TH Marine parts as well.

Slapped this together in Autosketch this morning. With the valve closed and the boat in the water, turn the pump on and it fills the tank through the floor drain. End of the day, pump is left off, valve is opened and the tank drains by gravity back through the hull fitting. Everything is...

Those livewells are well above the waterline. You'll need a pump to fill it, and some kind of valve to keep the water in once it's filled. I'll draw up the plan I have for the livewell in the Alumacraft and post it in the next couple days...right now it's all in my head.

My Ryobi 18v drill

I've got my Garmin Striker 7 mounted on a 'B' size and have no issues - the 'C' should be more than capable.

More work done today, almost done with the Styrofoam. All the small pieces are in and the starboard side is notched and fitted. Port side left to notch and final fitting, then it's gluing and bar-stock for hold-downs.

My issue is similar - I'm going to be doing some pour-foam and the garage is too cold even with the basement door open to let in heat. Neighbor has a propane fired heater I can borrow - says it'll get his 2.5 car garage to 80+ - should have no problem with my 1 car garage. Just have to route...

Cutting and fitting of the Styrofoam continues...another day and it should be done. Glue the outside pieces to the side channels, then some 1" wide bar aluminum for hold-downs (to prevent the pour foam expansion from dislodging the Styrofoam) and I'll be ready to pour.