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https://norfolk.craigslist.org/boa/d/virginia-beach-sylvean-fisherman/7710028456.html Not a spectrum, but similar

I got sick with Covid last month. I have never had it before, it took me down hard for a couple weeks. My Mom passed, she was 89, and put up with me for over six decades. Bless her soul. My youngest kid graduated from Appalachian State in Boone, NC. Between driving back home to MD, and out...

The drains have heavy weld beads on the exterior. I haven’t cleaned up the interior drain area yet, but I’m pretty sure there are thinner welds on the interior. That means they are welded tubes. I’ll try and get some pictures soon. I need to get off my butt and get back to work on this project...

Having welded some cracks in the skin of my 1751 hull, I can vouch for the theory that old aluminum is hard to weld. It welds like it is full of contamination, no matter how much you clean it first.

I put the boat in the water to do a leak check. My welds are not leaking. The area adjacent to both drains leaked. It is a slow leak, more of a seep. I’m not sure what to do. I’ll clean up the metal the best I can and see what I find. I don’t think I will find any cracks, but you never know.

I drove up to Norfolk yesterday, to buy more aluminum from Matt, at Professional Welding services, AKA Tricked-Tins on YouTube. Now I have more 1.5” angle (.125”) for the floor support structure. I would like to put the hulll on the trailer this weekend and take it to the creek and put it in...

Thanks Fuzz, When I was looking at my boat, before I bought it, I was looked down inside where the plugs are located. Having sat uncovered it had some leaves & water inside. That tight location looked like a scary place to be sticking my hand down into…LOL.

I registered the trailer, so now I can take the boat to the creek, and float-check the hull for leaks. I will finish the center floor sheet metal installation, and then remove it all. This way later in the build, when it is time to permanently install the floor, all of the supports, ribs and...

I cut & trimmed the notches in my new floor. It turned out pretty good, it needs a little trimming in a couple spots. My goal is to have a tight gap everywhere with enough room so the metal floor does not touch the sides and ribs. I might run a bead of 3M 2200 around the perimeter, to secure...

I set up a of couple saw horses to put my 60” x 64” x .125” aluminum 5xxx series sheet metal “floor” on. I clamped my template to the sheet metal and traced it with a sharpie.

I made a template for the floor from a sheet of Coroplast & a hot glue gun

I finished fitting the 1.5” angles for all of the cracked ribs. They are held in place with cleco’s for now, while I make a template for the sheet metal floor that will go on top. When I put my level on the new floor support flanges, I can see they are all sitting even at the same height. I...

After the .125” aluminum sheet goes down, that’s it…it will have an aluminum floor. I will paint the entire boat when I am finished, and that area of the deck will probably get non-skid.

If you put the plug in from the inside, you can pull the plug while running on plane to drain the water. I do this in my 1648 when I am crabbing all the time. If I stick with the drains as is, I’ll just sop up the water after I use it.

I will post a picture of where my single sheet on .125” aluminum floor will be installed. I did this with my I pad and finger tip, so it’s pretty sloppy, but you should be able to see the idea.

There are seven ribs that my 64” sheet metal floor will cover. Six of them will have the rib reinforcement angles riveted to the cracked ribs. The aft most rib, which is at the beginning of the tunnel is where this 64” sheet will start. The reinforcement angle will be bonded only to this rib...

I didn’t feel like loading the boat on the trailer for a leak check yesterday, so I tinkered with other stuff. Maybe tomorrow? I will definitely be doing a leak check on this hull while it is still a bare hull, before I start putting it back together. I started fitting the aluminum angles that...

The part about my drains that I don’t like is they are too high. The boat will always hold a little water in each side of the tunnel, because of the drain locations. If I move the drains lower, I have to design the rear seating to allow access to the drains, so I can install & remove the plugs...

I can’t argue with that logic. On another note I have been toying with the thought of adding new drains in my boat. I could weld in two 1” tubes in the floor V’s, at the bottom of the transom, the lowest location, so it would be the best place to put the drains. The way the seats were...

The two foreword corner areas of the tunnel, was cracked when I got this boat. I have welded the exterior skin together, in both areas. I also welded the inside areas, where I saw water leaking in during my one test run in this boat. I will put the boat back on the frailer and fill it with about...