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Some pictures of the rivet set, rivet gun, and my adapter. Normally when you install a solid rivet, or "buck a rivet", the pneumatic rivet gun hammers the rivet heat via the rivet set, attached to the gun. A second person, or your other hand is used to hold the bucking bar against the bucktail...

The buck-tails, as viewed from inside the hull.

Yes, I plan on running a tachometer and a gas gauge in the center console. I drilled out (removed) the two leaky rivets. One of them revealed an oversize hole under the buck-tail end, that was not visible until after the buck-tail was removed. The other one has a nice round hole, like it should...

I have the boat hull back in the shop, on the floor so I can access the bottom. My leak check revealed two leaking rivets. I will try and get them replaced tonight so I can leak check it again tomorrow. The reason I say “try” is because I am alone, and bucking rivets like these normally take...

I picked up a used Tempo plastic gas tank, PN #640030, 17 gal. It’s about 17 years old, but it looks real nice, so I bought it for $80 from CL. I’m planning on mounting it under the drivers bench seat. This will put the tank close to the CG. Handling characteristics shouldn’t change much as...

I put the boat on the trailer and parked it in the driveway. I installed these bunks with an uphill slope on purpose to help water drainage while the boat is parked on the trailer. The first thing I did was put a running water hose in the boat to see how much water will remain inside the boat...

I flipped the boat over and set it on a couple flat moving dollys. I want to lift it onto the trailer and put a few inches of water inside to see it it leaks.

Welding the boat sheet metal is difficult compared to welding coupons. I can’t simply run a bead, if I’m not careful it will burn through. I don’t know how to describe it, but I end up with huge mountain welds. It seems like the old metal has impurities within, even if I wire bush it and...

I finished welding the tunnel cracks. I ran a couple practice beads on a .125 coupon. Next, I welded a couple of used coupons together, running an outside corner bead. I did two of them.

Nice. I want do do the same thing. Did you buy a new tach, or maybe found a used one? One that I’m looking at on EPAY cost about $88, and $38 for the harness. I’m planning on buying them both online and be done with it.

Jeff, I like how low your drains are on your tunnel boat. Mine sit a little higher. That’s why I put the bunks on the trailer at such a steep angle. I want the boat to drain when it is on the trailer. When I’m out crabbing in my 1648 tiller boat, I can pull the plug while running and it will...

I was watching “Life below zero” last night. The character living on a houseboat, moored to a floating dock in SE AK, has a boat just Ike yours. He caught a huge king salmon fishing out of that aluminum spectrum runabout. A lot of other characters on that show and other shows based in AK, are...

This is what it looks like underneath, before I sanded the paint off. Red lines depict cracks. The white stuff is 5200 around a rivet. I am thinking about cutting the welds on the interior, where the welds attach the ribs to the skin. The factory didn’t put any weld here, I think I could weld...

Like a said in the previous post. I have questions to ponder… Why did someone weld the tunnel skin to the ribs on each side of the tunnel? They welded four spots, two on each side. There are four ribs on each side of the tunnel. Why didn’t they weld all four on each side if they thought it...

I welded the cracks at the forward corners of the tunnel section. The cracks were mostly running parallel to the welds, close to the factory welds. After I finished the cracked corners, I was planning on welding the cracks adjacent to non factory welds that are on the tunnel walls, on each side...

That’s a nice little boat you have there, full of memories, congrats. If the trailer wheels spin freely, that’s is a good sign, but I would definitely pull the hubs & bearings so you can clean & inspect them. Check the race’s as well. My recent purchase, a (1992 Polar Craft 1751) lost a wheel...

I’m curious what tachometer you are using? I found a 4” tachometer & wiring harness that should work for my 1992 60 hp VRO. I don’t know much about this stuff, do you think these will work for me?

The reason I posted that was to not to suggest a power level, rather to provide more info. I find it interesting how much the HP rating can jump when a 20” transom is used, vice a 15” transom. Adding a console is similar over a tiller steer boat. Just stuff to think about when picking a hull...

Boat is looking nice. Good choice on that three cylinder two stroke OMC. A 70 should work great on a little tin boat!

RamBoard or Coroplast can be purchased at your local hardware store. The ram board is thick paper basically and is not as stiff or rigid when spanning gaps, compared to coroplast. Coroplast is commonly used for outdoor signs, it is pretty rigid and might be good when you are starting from...