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I agree leave the bow stop where it is and move the winch where the pully is.

Don't forget to seal the wood.

Have a piece of aluminum formed to fit over the strake and have it welded. If you use any of the listed products to fix it and it doesn't hold up and you decide to get it welded it will be a pain in the ass to get the aluminum cleaned up to weld.

Don't forget to get the proper tongue weight. Around 10%.

My best guess is that when the transom wood is removed the aluminum under it will be like swiss cheese.

SYP X grade would be a good choice.

Looks like someone put pressure treated wood as the transom. Pull the old wood and see how bad the damage is.

What is on the inside of the boat where the patch? Is there any visible damage?

BCX plywood will work too. The X means its exterior grade.

While it will work there are better ways to patch aluminum. A flat tire can be fixed by filling it with concrete, but it's not the best way.

Clean off the fiberglass first then you can see what is really wrong. Then you can see what the real problem is and how best to fix it.

Sand it back until you get to where it solidly attached. Or better yet peel it off and fix it right.

Is the Baltic Birch made with waterproof glue? Maybe you should test some.

The big Starcrafts get done.

You could put an 1/8" spacer on the inside.

Gluvit goes on the inside on the rivets and seams.

I believe shrink tubing now comes with adhesive inside.

What do you mean by fix up? There are better ways to fix leaks on tin boats.

The way the transom cap is cut to make the bends makes me think it's not original. Keep the inner wood the same thickness and do a 2-piece outer. A thinner outer wood piece along the upper part of the transom where a motor clamps on and the top cap goes on. A thicker piece of wood where the...

Meat and bread = Sandwich. But is a hotdog really meat?