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hi ottingercw. A little background on the catalog boats might help clear up some confusion...forgive me if you're already aware... Wards didn't actually make anything, they contracted other majors. This one has the looks of StarCraft, but they also used Span America, Wizard (California)...

If it's just the width that is of concern, dial up each of the types linked above. Multiple mounting widths are available.

I'll vouch for quality from these guys. I personally own three versions of their biminis along with various seats, cushions, and oars. Not disappointed in any of it. If you truly want full coverage, you'll find 4, 5, 6, and 8ft lengths along with an 5 or 7ft. extension option...

At this moment I'm staring at a sign for $2.88 and reading a AAA story about the slide in averages. Also, an inflation calculator simply shows the value of currency indexed for the time period. Value is calculated on all those variables.

The national average is actually going down. Your local pain may vary with local and state variables. The point of illustrating the inflation calculator is to emphasize that one cannot compare any value today to any value in the past without first converting for a legitimate comparison.

Your $32 fuel day in 1964 was actually way more expensive comparatively than today's $80 day. Also, fwiw, the Walmart/ oil stories are wild. Here in Tennessee, the shelves are stocked with variety. $18.74 per gal for Super Tech $21.74 Pennzoil $26.42 Valvoline $33.98 Quicksilver

what LDUBS said. Zero monies to be made on throwing money at a vintage motor. But... The 18 is an awesome motor. (as are all the 22ci versions....as are all the early OMC twins...) For me, it would not be hard to spend less than $200 for a rock solid design that will be bulletproof for...

I agree with adding a pad to the outside. I would suggest being aware of total thickness of the two combined pieces, too. The total depth shouldn't exceed the width of your transom clamps. Usually around 1.5in. The thickness of the inner yoke is usually dictated by the thickness of the top...

"Most of the members" at that meet, perhaps. I've found the club to be very helpful and I've been able to help some folks, too. Networking within a common hobby can't be all bad. But to be fair, I agree 100% about the old, old stuff. I have a few and they're fun to play with, but they're...

https://www.aomci.org/ has a classified section and regional chapters. They are also on Facebook as both a member and a non-member page. You will find relevant customers there. Facebook marketplace is the best option as a dart-throwing exercise. In general, you will find vintage motors to be...

Typically, yes. ...also typically, vintage paperwork is rarely correct. lol Doesn't really matter as long as you get it registered, though.

Duracraft is one of the grandfather aluminum boat companies beginning business immediately after WW2. It is still a family run business now known as War Eagle. Vintage Duracraft, however, is famously hard to date, though. They used a serial system that numbered boats sequentially off the...

cool ride! It's actually 1954-56 for those that are interested, though.

On the puncture repair, I believe I would go with a scab patch. Welded or just riveted with a back-butter of 5200 would probably be fine, too. It seems to be a time proven approach -even below the waterline- by folks on other forums. In fact, given the location, I would probably get a little...

In my experience, the CitriStrip is as good as any other less-than-good product out there. The trick, is to keep it wet and active for a maximum amount of time. In the shade and covered with plastic wrap helps exponentially. In some cases, I've had it last overnight and still be wet and...

For what it's worth, HP Capacity and Weight Capacity are two different calculations. HP capacity is based on boat dimensions and construction. I have 14ft boats that are rated everywhere between 12hp and 40hp. Weight capacity is based on displacement. It includes your motor, fuel, gear...

You're not alone for a short M series HIN. I've yet to stumble upon a reasonable explanation, but there seems to be quite a few out there. For what it's worth, you're going to be between 1980 and 1984. (your '8' in the tenth position indicates the 1980s and the M Format ended in 1984) The...

White Oak, Mahogany, and/or Marine Ply are the usual suspects for transom construction. One can step up or down from that set with the more expensive Coosa Blueboard or the less expensive Exterior Ply. For what it's worth, Red Oak is not recommended for boat building as it has a cellular...

A HIN with "Z" in the third position is indicative of a state-issued HIN. "WN" indicates Washington state. The federal HIN program didn't begin until 1972. Boats made after 1972 will have a federal HIN plate on the outside transom. Boats made prior to 1972 had only a model/serial number, in...