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Starboard or any other such ‘super plastic’ is expen$ive, heavy, shrinks & expands with temperature and has limited to ZERO longitudinal compressive strength … your transom would bend like spaghetti. It would be an absolute WASTE of time and $$ in my experience … but I’ve only done a few dozen...

Cables should interchange as default at the OB end depending on the OB brand you're using. I'd recommend the UFlex brand of dual-lever side controls

Just bought a few of the Moras to throw on the various boats I have. I have one already and the edge it obatins AND holds is amazing; always impressed me! And bonus, it is made in Sweden ... not China! Link = https://www.chicagoknifeworks.com/sale/?orderby=popularity

Solved it! At least for NJ …

Here's info on a center keel repair ... once done and done right, ZERO leaks since done, on a tin boat used in the salt to boot: https://www.tinboats.net/threads/center-keel-removal-repair-%E2%80%93-on-a-saltwater-tin.48157/

Go here please ... https://www.tinboats.net/threads/leak-repair-gluvit-3m5200-g-flex-650.52321/#post-522328 ... and one should please not ask repeat questions ...

It’s likely the rivets at the center chine that are suspect. However, the ideal repair doesn’t sound like a viable option for you, i.e., turning it over, removing the floor, etc., then weeping in G-Flex 650 and then rebucking all the rivets. That said, I’d clean it all up the best you can, if...

Empty milk crates for the win! Rode dries out better too!

Yes, epoxies give off an 'amine blush' when curing and that top layer needs a light sanding to ensure whatever else is applied 'sticks'. But with that said, they do make more expen$ive blush-free epoxies, usually those ultra-clear ones to make bar tops out of raw woods, for example. You done...

Good to know, thanks!

No, paint is good, loose paint not ... My point was BARE tin should be primed before applying any goop/sealer for the best life and adhesion. You have paint, so if you say used G-Flex as further protection for the seams, that'll work. No need to prime if those areas are painted. Look up my...

Most silicones having curing agents that can attack tin. If you're waterproofing the edges of the wood, epoxy on the edges and underneath would last a lifetime! Get the small 1.5 quart standard kit from Mike at Raka Epoxy for only $36. Note flexible expoxy like West Systems G-Flex 650 would...

... just be AWARE that the curing agents in some/most silicones attacks aluminum, as it is acid based ... I don't apply any goop to a tin boat without white vinegar acid etching, then priming the area 1st.

Solid cable or stranded? You should only use standed AWG cable. Starter load depends on the length run BOTH ways, to and fro, to determine the ampacity of the cable needed. I know that OMC V6 OB starters have a peak amp draw of ~ 230 once energized and ~180 sustained. I have OEM Service...

As @PSG-1 mentions, NOTE there are 3 different anode types available - zinc, aluminum, or magnesium. So choose the right one for your use. I used a 'zinc' as this boat was in saltwaters, but the other types may be a better choice for you. A good source to buy these is www.boatzincs.com, as...

Good point, here's a post with pictures on adding anode: https://www.tinboats.net/threads/adding-a-zinc-anode-to-a-tin-boat-for-saltwater-use.39331/ NOTE there are 3 different anode types available - zinc, aluminum, or magnesium. So choose the right one for your use. A good source to buy these...

I had it on the bottom, from the boat resting on the carpet bunks that were immersed in saltwater every time she was dunked. I learned my lesson there and added vinyl gutter material over my carpeted bunks.

If indeed just pin holes, I'd prep, vinegar wash, prime (and too bad we can't use 2-part epoxy-based Zinc Chromate any longer ...) and then apply West Systems G-Flex 650 (as it's flexible) or Steel Flex. Note any epoxy product like this MUST be painted over to protect it from UV exposure. I did...

That’s more a reflection of what HP the OBs were available in when those hulls were made, like most likely the only other higher option was a 10hp.

Looks like rated for a 8.