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Believe me ... it WILL cause problems if the boat is used is saltwater. Anyone with an old green or black Penn or black Garcia Mitchell reel used in the salt can verify it for themselves. Did you ever have the paint coming off near a screw but it also looked like it was bubbling? And maybe you...

Looks like a more elegant approach!

www.Marineengine.com is the BEST site I use ... should have added that. When I order parts, I get them in 2-days!

You'll be best to review PARTS LISTS and see what parts are different, including any power pack or such, besides carb parts, jets, throttle bodies, or whatevah. Oh, and that Merc isn't a Merc, as all Merc OBs 30hp and under are made by Tohatsu.

You might be best to leave them there and just cut-out the center as needed. Yes, you seats will be 1" taller or so due to the MDO over the existing rear seats, but that's not much. See here for some examples of using 'L'=shaped aluminum angle for bracing. At worst ... maybe you'll need to...

With that huge angle difference, perhaps a 'shim' would be best. Buy a heap cutting board at the dollar store, cut out a chunk the width of the rib and length at least as long at the longest leg of the angle ... then figure out a way to cut the angle. But cutting board LDPE (low-density...

Update ... I found some of similar shear value from Jay Cee Rivets, aka www.rivetsonline.com . You WILL need a $30 Haba Freight 'A'-frame rivet tool to properly set them.

I'd use 1/8" thick 'L'-shaped angle, with a good 1-1/2" leg on each side and would affix to the ribs with good 1/4" high-shear rivets. I can get you the # of them from McMaster-Carr, sold in boxes of 25, they have the same strength rating at the rivets holding the boat together. If you need more...

If it were me ... I'd at least get that transom 'top cap trim' piece out of the way. Even if you can't fully remove the 2 corner end caps off completely, you should be able to 'lift' carefully the end on the top cap. If/as needed, anneal the corner brace before bending by coating the area to...

A Tiny Tach wired to one of the spark plug leads is easiest and cheapest, $22 from eBay: FWIW if you do a lot of engines, this "wireless" handheld one is da nuts! But yes more expensive! But a BONUS is that you can wrap a wire around a plug lead, route the wire outside the engine cowl and just...

Do NOT use 'pinned' oars! When it ultimately breaks ... and it will ... it will be when you needed it most and you may fall out of the boat or get hurt as result ... and then you'll recall I advised against it ... Put 'collars' on the oar with the 'full ring' oar lock put onto to it before the...

Will a typical 1” drain plug go into that from the outside? Harder to find, but they do make them in a 1-1/4” size. I wonder if someone was using it for a livewell drain …

That'll be FUN!

True, steering friction should always be UP enough to prevent errant operation if you let go the tiller. And knowing a guy who got run over by his OWN boat after he fell out ... only to live as my Mother put her hand into his inner thigh to clamp the cut artery closed (She didn't remove it...

FYI … Whereas I had only added a small ‘fin’ thing like that on a 15hp on an inflatable, I figured I had better check with Pappy to see if it would work on a 30hp on a light 14’ skiff. Here is what he had to say: “Sure, why not. The key to making it work is to let whoever it is know that this...

.. don't recall seeing any 'adjustable' fins until up to ~60hp OBs myself. My old OMC 60hp had one, see photo from the 1996 OEM Service Manual, gearcase section.

No adjustable fin on that year OB. But use the 2 existing holes in the vent plate for the anode and make a small fin out of 1/8" angle aluminum stock. One leg 1" (for the bolts) and the other leg 1-1/2" tall (for the fin). See concept sketch. The 'slotted' hole allows for adjustment. Also make...

I’ll do you one better … I put nylon washers between anything stainless and anything aluminum on saltwater boats.

True, if slotted ... definitely add a washer to help 'slide' the OB up or down. Easily accomplished with a car jack under the skeg (keep as vertical as can be). Or, lower trailer tongue, block up the skeg, then raise the trailer to slide the OB up. Removing the top 2 fixed bolts 1st, whilst...

1st off, recall that from an engineering standpoint, there are 4 reasons to use a washer - load distribution - spacing - vibration absorption - & liquid prevention. Yes, a large diameter 'fender' washer will spread the load over a larger area - that's a given, But another purpose (not stated in...