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Ideal Prop Pitch: This used to be a 'sticky post' in the Motors Forum, but they all got lost once Jim sold off the Site ... but go here and enter in ALL of the specifics for YOUR hull, motor and gear: https://turningpointpropellers.com/PROPWIZARD/index.html?tan=

RPMs: Well, I have an '83 15hp and the service manual and this is what is says: Ideal Prop Pitch: This used to be a 'sticky post' in the Motors Forum, but it got lost once Jim sold off the Site ... but go here and enter in ALL of the specifics for YOUR hull, motor and gear...

It's a 'V' hull, never heard the word 'semi V' used to describe one myself ... Just be aware that the deadrise on such tin hulls is low to non-existent. Some V-hulls, only have the V at the bow and the stern is flatter than ... well you know ... we'll just say it's flat, LOL! Some hulls like...

You could glue some Azek or other plastic material to form a barrier the battery box sits in, that’s what I did, albeit on a frp hull. Agree, use a battery box to contain it.

Use wing-nuts on a saltwater offshore boat and I A-#1 guarantee you that they WILL loosen up … Also, the reason for a washer on the stud 1st is because there are NO THREADS at the bottom of a battery post, many times keeping anything connected there loose …

That Blue Sea block is a good upgrade to the Johnny Ray one, but it still would be fine for anything you would use on a small skiff.

This is what you want, by Johnny Ray, attaches to your battery and allows you to add extra accessory items. Just please NEVER use wingnuts on a battery. Loose connections can blow a stator on an OB engine. And always put an internal or external tooth lock washer down on the battery post before...

Or ... do it simple ... Get off any of the loose paint, prep any bare spots with a white vinegar wash using an aggressive scrubbie pad, then rinse. Add suitable metal primer to bare spots when paint with Rust-Oleum enamel of your choice ... A trailered boat bottom paint isn't rocket science...

I just use suitable diameter blind rivets, flush part to the outside, then smack the inside stem hard against a bucking bar to make it as flush ad possible.

West Systems G-Flex 650 ... it is a flexible epoxy ... I've posted a few tutorials on here on using it on aluminum ... The MUSTs are ... prep area well beforehand, and paint afterwards.

Also, the gray vs. black fuel lines are for different applications ... A1 - Fuel feed hose; Black in color, has a fire resistant cover; designed to have fuel in the hose at all times, made for use below decks or under engine hatches, say on inboard or I/O motors ... it has the highest fire...

… well, was worth the try! Did you try eBay????

Go here: Prop Wizard Put in all the details of YOUR rig & they may just have one for you! Their props are super!

Just due to the sheer weight alone, a floor or anything added into a hull increases ‘initial stabilty’ due to the increased displacement. But like someone else mentioned, for a floor versus a raised deck, a raised deck can decrease the ‘secondary stability’ or that when the boat tips or heels.

I've done it too on various rigs. Just be aware big OBs with a ton of peak starting amps can put such a load starting that some FFs shut off when cranking ...

Oh wow … I think the toothpick or golf tee idea or, even better … bamboo chopsticks … as bamboo is pretty much impervious to water, with some type of adhesive, would work slick!

Ditto the above, but also add some type of polysulfidimid adhesive like BoatLife ’Life Caulk’. However, is there any chance you could put ’riv-nuts’ where the screw holes are? Can you get access to those areas? I’ve had about a half dozen Lunds in my life so far, 14’-18’, and never had a...

Yes, at least remove any high spots and do your best to smoothen gouges, but any prop worse than this is a candidate for a spare or recycling. Personally I've never worried about balancing small props like that ...

UPDATE - Here is the picture that somehow doesn't show anymore in Post #2 above ... on Page 1.

This is the photo that is supposed to be in that #2 post ...