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use your screwdriver to scrape the paint out of the slot in the drain plugs. use a knife, dental pick, something to scrape the paint off around the screw that has it glued to the surroundings. Make sure you turn the plug with a screwdriver that fits the screw slot perfectly so you don't mess up...

Very cool old boat. Just my opinion but...a grey paint job on that motor to match the aluminum would look great. Would love a video of it on the water.

My thought too. I'd cut off a small chunk and sink it in a 5 gal bucket for an hour. See if it gets heavier from water weight.

screw it down. caulk the gap. paint it. You'll never notice.

I "glued" a piece of PVC to the transom with 3M 5400 marine adhesive and screwed the transducer to that. No holes in the transom. If you're moving at trolling motor speed, placement isn't real critical but your installation manual will give you tips. Unless your unit has a thru-hull...

Don't know what your area is like but around here, in the marshes, any sort of prop guard would pick up so many reeds that it wouldn't work at all.

31-31mph is plenty fast enough for me in a small aluminum boat. I don't think I've seen a jon boat with 4 seats before. Interesting.

Pods also give you a step to climb into the boat from the water. If I had to choose one or the other, you can never have enough room in a boat.

Excellent information. Points me in the right direction. Thank you.

But not just any 2 stroke. It's an old mariner with a single ignition coil and two cylinders. The ignition coil fires twice for each stroke of the piston. So, a 2 stroke fires twice as often as a 4 stroke and my 2 stroke fires twice as often as other 2 strokes. Any tachs that will work for me?

Sounds like you can weld. I've already posted this here a couple of times but here's how I reinforced my transom. Just another option. I added a piece of 2" x 3" steel tube behind the rear bench seat. The tube has flanges welded on the end and is bolted to the hull on each side. That tube...

I think it identifies as a yacht.

https://www.mcmaster.com/spacers/length~1/od~1/id~1-2/

The old pressure treated chemical was chromated copper arsenate (CCA). It was the copper in the chemical that ate away aluminum. CCA was done away with almost 20 years ago. It's a really good treatment for wood and is still able to be used for some specialized applications but you won't find...

What I would do: If this motor stores a history of faults, let a shop scan it to tell you whether the problem is with pressure or temperature. IF not, research what type of output signal each sensor uses. Put a meter on one sensor, and then the other, while running the motor in a barrel and...

Maybe. Right now, the cavitation plate is perfectly in line with the keel. Motor is bolted right to the transom with no jack plate so experimenting would be tough. I rarely travel more than a 20 mile round trip anywhere so an extra 3mph isn't critical.

My 17' PolarKraft has trouble keeping the bow down. I've adjusted the outboard to every position and some are better than others but none are great. I wanted to add a hydrofoil but somebody in the past drilled holes in the cavitation plate that don't fit the standard hydrofoil bolt pattern. I...

If your boat lives in salt water, it could eventually be a problem. If you trailer the boat to salt water and it's usually on a trailer, won't be a problem in your lifetime. If you use the boat in fresh water, no problem there either.

good, intact factory paint makes a great primer for the next paint job. I would sand lightly to knock off any dirt and shiny spots and paint right over the existing.

If the base coat is intact, leave it and paint over it. It's hard to get paint to stick well to aluminum. If the factory paint is sticking well, it's easier to get new paint to stick to the old paint than to stick to the aluminum under the old paint.