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Your right it wouldn’t work with a shop vac. Once the water is in its there. It just hangs on until it’s squeezed out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your really not going to get the water out. Until you remove the foam. But do replace it. I just went through this. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That is a trade off for all the storage under the deck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Measure down from the rail going to the center seat and see if that’s 4 1/2 5 inches if you went from there over on top of the front seat then that gives you a much larger flat deck. Leaving the bow deck for like the trolling motor as mentioned. I think you might’ve misunderstood I didn’t mean...

Ok, just going off the pics. It looks to be 3” below. One thing you can try, is to put a bead of jb weld on the edge of the transom. This will do the same thing as beating a hook in the bottom, as mentioned. Try 3/8” if you get no porpoising. File it down 1/8” at a time, until it starts again...

Your problem isn’t the taps. It’s the long shaft motor on that transom. With the jackplate all the way up , in the pic. The prop to pad is still to low. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I would build it off the center seat, level. It looks as if it would run over the front seat some. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

For real at least a Harpoon Canon right. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

There’s Versa Foam to. It expands 10 times its spray. Come in a 10 pound tank, gun , hoses . You just hookup the hose turn nozzle to spay, point and spray. It sticks to what you spray it on. And start to expand. It’s so precise and how you spray it. That you can build it up over and over again...

Yes, it will perform better all around. No more than 6” no less than 4”. 4” is more common for aluminum boats with your 115hp. But 6” is better, that’s the one I would use. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

May or may not need a fuel pump. But if you are constantly having to pump up the bulb. You do have air getting into the system some where. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looks like it will work better. And yes over time the rollers would have put hook in the hull. Unless they where right on top of ribs or strings. Lund has been using roller trailers for ever. But there is a way it has to be done. Good call to change. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

1/8” aluminum is great to span 14-16” with no sagging or oil canning popping sounds. It weighs about the same as 3/4” plywood. I used it on my cockpit floor in my boat. Cost double what the wood does. But it’s forever. No worries of wet weather. If cost isn’t an issue, this is the best over all...

As Dale said is correct. Your motor is to high ( for this prop) you are venting. This is the problem with the slip so high. Is why your speed is not increased with the rpms, and porpoising. Two choices are to lower motor one hole with current prop. Or reprop to a 4 blade if you’re going to run...

Well I had a 05 Titan crew cab. Loved it one wheel seal all those years and that was it. But I really love this Frontier. It has the frame of a titan. I plan on doing the Titan swap when the warranty is up. Utube has some good videos on that. It’s a suspension swap. It’s the right way to get a...

Yea we actually couldn’t launch that day. But I’ve had her out two other times. And she feels like a different boat. Very happy. Thanks Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

well she is done [emoji847] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey, as mentioned already I like the x braces in the stringers. I just went through the wet foam issue. My advice is not to fill the center keel of six inches. And drill a couple 1” holes on each side of the keel. To drain from bow to stern. Happy building [emoji106] Sent from my iPad using...

Yep my first reaction to. It’s super easy to use. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dale is right. This is a must with the spray. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk