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Have you tried trimming up the motor one notch to see of that helps? CMOS

Agreed. That's a shoulder bolt, and is designed to snug right down to the stop. CMOS

Are you suggesting there is a PROBLEM with the motor, or are you just unhappy with the performance? How big are these "two people"? How much fuel weight and other gear do you have on board? Those speeds don't sound too out of the ordinary. CMOS

It really doesn't matter where, only that you get a good, solid Ground connection. There aren't too many places where that lead can reach, right? Just find place, free of paint, and ground it. What about those 2 threaded hold on the side of the head in the picture? CMOS

There are web postings all over the place that are "primers" for buying an OB motor. Read them. Take the time to do so. Also, before you go look at any motor you will want to get your own Compression tester gauge and a Spark Gap tester. Both are inexpensive but mandatory when guying a used...

Nice. "Bad" as in restricted? CMOS

If you want to try to wind the spring a bit more, here's my suggestion, along with a warning: Pull the pull-start handle out a bit, maybe 6-12 inches and cut the rope just behind the handle. Allow the rope to be pulled back into the cowling. Pull the end of the recoil started spring out of...

No oil return line. CMOS

You said, "I've tried rewinding it back onto the spool and it still won't retract." How did you try to rewind it back? If nothing is broken you have the choice between winding the recoil assembly CCW a few turns to get some more recoil, or replace the recoil spring while you have the thing...

Update 4-15-17: I did a test by placing the fuel tank above the motor itself (on top of my pickup toolbox), and the water supply was a barrel (no muffs). As before I was able to get her started at normal idle. I just left it in the driveway and sat down and watched. After about 4 minutes it...

It will but IMO it's much easier to pull the flywheel. CMOS

It's possible that the other end of the recoil spring broke loose from the spring retainer and retainer pin. Time to pull it off. Best to remove the flywheel. It's easy to do. Pull the whole starter assembly off but don't pull out the main mounting screw too far which will make the whole...

I just rebuilt my 1982 15 HP, which should be the same. Yes, it's fairly easy. Let me ask you, is the end of the recoil spring still protruding from the slot in the starter base cup, or did it get pulled in? CMOS

If that 1985 is anything like my 82, you can rebuild that carb in less than 10 minutes (not counting the soak time). It's super simple. CMOS

Good point. I did that on my 1966 9.5. Used the semi-clear Tygon tubing. I'll probably do the same this weekend to the 15 when I have some time to do some more testing. CMOS

I got her done last weekend. Running like a champ again. After I pulled the low speed screw I was able to shoot carb cleaner into the passage. Added a fuel filter in the line and put her back together. Running smooth as ever. CMOS

Thanks Pappy. Yes, the motor is keeping a good consistent head temperature. I was regularly placing my hand on the top of the head for easily 10 seconds. With regards to your comments about advancing the throttle: When the idle dropped low I would re-prime the fuel line while advancing the...

Almost every time I take out my boat with that 1966 9.5 HP some old timer comments on it. They grin from ear to ear when I tell them that the darn thing just won't quit. Runs like a champ. I am hoping pappy will reply to this thread. . . . CMOS :mrgreen:

Just thinking.... I see people running old motors from the 50's, 60's, and 70's all the time. They seem to run quite well. This begs the question: other than electronic ignitions, have 2-stroke outboards "improved" over the last 50 years? I'm currently running a 1966 Johnson 9.5 on my 14'...

Good points. I'm also going to do the next test in a barrel instead of the muffs - just to be sure of the water pump capability (new impeller and T-stat). CMOS