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1. You may be on to something. When I wound the recoil spring in the housing I did it really tight. I have service manuals but there is no mention of gauging how tight to wind the spring. 1. Float was functioning fine right before I reinstalled, but I will have to check things out again. CMOS

I did have the fuel tank vent open. My thoughts on the float: I re-read some info on LeeRoy's Ramblings regarding carb work. He stated that there are 2 adjustments to the float: one for when it closes, and the other for how far it opens (or drops down in literal terms). I did not adjust the...

Lake Test - FAIL. Didn't even get it off the trailer. 1. When pumping the fuel primer bulb - fuel is pouring out of the lower cowling. So, float is stuck open. 2. The recoil starter is toast, again. The recoil spring pulled into the lower cup, again. (yes, I have the proper length cord)...

PJ, That's the plan - tomorrow! I was able to easily touch the head the whole time it was running. CMOS

I had only a very small volume running through the hose. CMOS

UPDATE Saturday 4-2-16: Running. I had to fully advance the throttle to get her to start the first time. Got the slow speed screw adjusted reasonably well (without a real lake run). Warm starts are now 1-pull. Pee-hole is peeing very well. Please take a look at the 2 attached pictures. Is...

Carb is OFF. I saw no indication of any obstructions to the low and high speed jets. I pulled both of the brass orifices, the idle needle, and sprayed all of the asseccible passages with carb cleaner. Note - the fuel bowl was FULL when I removed it. A question: when I first dug into this...

UPDATE Saturday morning 3-19: I tested the fuel pump again - good squirts into the Carb. I did shoot some fuel into the carb intake with a new squirty bottle - engine does turn over and try to run. Engine will not even cough without the fuel squirt, including fully advancing the throttle in...

Okay, I have not done THAT part yet. My squirty bottle died on me. This weekend should provide more feedback, and hopefully a solution. [-o< CMOS

I've done everything on that list except checking the fuel bowl, which I cannot access while still on the motor. I will still pull the carb with it upright, then remove the bottom bowl and see if fuel is getting to the internals. CMOS

Guys - understood. 1. I have good spark on both cylinders, per a real spark tester. 2. This motor was previously running in the driveway before the recoil starter crapped out on me (twice). My thoughts are, that since it's not even giving me a cough, I'm leaning towards a fuel issue...

Thanks for asking. No - did not have time last weekend. My 6-year old daughter drafted me. :mrgreen: I should get to it this weekend. Just going to pull the carb, open it up, and check all the passages. CMOS

Not yet. I'll try that this weekend. CMOS

Pappy, Will the card gum up in that short period of time if the fuel is treated (it is)? Choke assembly is correct. I will pull the carb this weekend and check out the internals. CMOS

Can't be. Due to the lengths and shapes of the wires they could not be switched. CMOS

When I pull that line to the Carb and turn the motor, should the fuel dribble out, or sort of shoot our in spirts? CMOS

Howdy All, The history on what I have done thus far to this motor: water pump kit lower gear oil plugs T-stat (pulled the entire head, resurfaced, and replaced the gasket) Full Carb kit rebuilt the fuel pump Compression is 120/120, spark tester shows good (tester, not with the plug). Now...

Okay, I see. I don't have enough metal depth to do a drill & tap so I'll have to use SS machine screws, a LW, and nut. Thanks, CMOS

Hey OP, I just got my hatch from R&R Designs! How did you install? SS sheet metal screws, or SS machine screws and a nut? I'm going to order another hatch for my front seat also! These people do some nice work. CMOS

Recoil starter is assembled and working well. Tried to start her but couldn't even get a cough. :| I'll have to do spark tests one night this week. CMOS