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Well I wouldn't argue with him one bit on any of it. Just knew it was early '60s before I saw any black Mercurys showing up. Saw some bronze and green 10s but the larger ones I saw in the later 50's were always white to my recollection. Funny I remember that stuff pretty well, yet I can't...

Correct, I about fell out about 2000 when Johnson went to that dark charcoal. Of coarse it didn't last long. Yeah, I am not touching that last sentence. LOL

Pappy I seldom ever even think about disputing you but you are wrong about the colors of Mercury motors in '58. All I ever saw that vintage and size was primarily white.

I do allot of aluminum repair. Short answer is yes it can be repaired. Long answer is if you don't know what you are doing most likely you will snap it. That is cast aluminum, so it is even more brittle than average aluminum.

Pros, none.

Pretty sure your transducer bracket is mounted upside down.

I would really doubt it was crank seals. It isn't impossible but that would be a last resort. I would really lean toward #1 Try another tank to rule out the pickup #2 fuel delivery since you say squeezing the bulb helps. I would check for loose clamps or suspect a minute hole in the fuel pump...

Their "new" as in the date they are put into service.

I do a lot of metal fab and aluminum welding. Go with .063 aluminum tread plate and closed cell foam between the strakes. The foam will add flotation and support for the floor. It will be solid and as light as you can get.

I have seen several bolted on. but I will admit they are the ones that were brought to me to weld after the fact. Most either hit something and pulled the bolts through or cracked around the holes. So I am not a fan.

I believe if you check you will find out most 100LL is a minimum of 99 octane. My best friend is a distributor to the local airport here and that is the minimum they have.

Depending on size I think you must have missed something.

OK that rules out the way I/we were headed. If it is was visually pumping water I didn't catch that. Sounds like you have an electrical component breaking down under heat and then coming back once it cools down.

I am not trying to be condescending here but if it is overheating you aren't doing yourself any favors by keep doing that. Getting it hot enough that it is seizing multiple times is finally going to take it's toll on that engine.

The very first thing I would do is ascertain that it wasn’t overheating. If that isn’t the case I would check all the battery connections both + and -. If not that then run a load test on the battery.

Coming along. A fellow brought one to me in excellent shape today just like it to do some welding on. He is refurbing it. I welded 191 holes in it from 1/8 -3/4” in the ribs, gunnel, seats and front deck. I have no clue what the previous owner had rigged in the boat but they had holes...

I think you are going to want to use nutserts and machine screws (bolts) in the place of those sheet metal screws for those spud holders. I have had four Sea Arcs and anything you mount on those gunnels with sheet metal screws that has constant vibration like those holders will wind up wallowing...

Nice boat, I followed your original build remember it well. I have done tons of welding/mods for folks on them. FYI they have 0.125 hulls.

Is it a choke or primer system? If it is choke make sure the butterfly is completely closed. If it is primer make sure it is working. Not idling well makes me think the carb either isn't adjusted correctly or you still don't have the low speed circuit clean.

But not near as strong.