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Pappy got to you before I did and has forgotten more than I know but he is correct about that bore. He also knows way more than I do about reviving old motors, I wouldn't have thought about the double oil and trying to see if it was salvageable. I would have went into recovery mode before you...

How do the cylinder walls look? No scratches, gouges etc? Visible score line?

I would clean it and break out the welder.

I had an old one that ran at 16:1 quite honestly it didn't smoke as bad as yours did in that short vid and when it did it wasn't that white. It was hard to tell what was going on in that vid as short as it was with no sound. It did indicate water in the combustion chamber but again with no sound...

How long did you run it in the test tank? If the head gasket was blown the piston should be almost white on top where the water was getting in and blowing the carbon off?

I appreciate the vids and pics of the old engines. They look great. It is good there are folks devoted to saving and restoring them.

It most likely was 90 wt gear oil, many folks cut corners and use that, don't. As long as it wasn't milky don't worry. If you haven't filled it back just let it drain good and fill it will a good quality LU lube. Make sure to open your top (level) plug and fill from the bottom.

It is great to see those old engines still running.

Looks like y'all found some very nice finds.

You can make it work with that motor but it is somewhat of a PITA. You have to make an adapter plate. As to the offset 5" is plenty. I have run either T&T or jack plates on several boats the size you have mentioned. Luckily the last was on a Yamaha with all the controls on the tiller and the...

It is starving for fuel/sucking air somewhere in the fuel system I would bet. I would check all fuel lines, filters, connectors(if applicable) I am betting they are suspect. If it has a primer check that. Sounds like it is in the fuel delivery system. If it was a reed it would do it in the tank.

I would bet that you didn't get some of the small passages cleaned out completely. Did you use a factory kit and do a "complete" rebuild or did you just clean the carb?

On my 25 it is directly in the back, almost in the same position. But if it is any help, it is recessed just like that and looks like that. If you wanted to be positive call the guys down at Wateree Marina and they would verify one way or another.

I have seen some of the vids of their escapades. And yes, that is about the only way to put it.

Could you tell by the bolts, gaskets etc if the top end had been gone into? Such as if the case had been halved or the head had been off? That would play a big part in my decision also.

I wouldn't touch it for 1K with the info you have given.

You would do well to make up pressure test system for that lower unit once you get it put together since it had issues. It is pretty simple and sure would save you a bunch of work rather than just putting it back on and then checking for water in the oil after use.

Well full disclosure I own one. A 1448, but I spent almost a day on it rewelding and repairing places on it and the outside looked like brand new when I got it but it was about 10 years old. The PO was unhappy with it because he was a perfectionist and it had a few leaks. He brought it here and...

^^^^^^ He is correct. I get more of them than any other brand combined to repair welds. It looks many times that they must be fabbing them in a first day welding school. Many of the Grizzley's won't have a false bottom but most of their boats that do after a few years use when you take them out...

I thought they were. I helped a fellow put a set in a couple years ago. I remember him having a hard time getting them. I believe he finally got a set of NOS on eBay. But like you said he was down for quite some time.