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I did end up getting it, transom was worse than I thought. The boat was in saltwater at some point, the aluminum transom is badly corroded. I decided to cut it all out and do it right.

Yeah, I was wondering if there would be too much flex in the PVC. How much Raka did you need for a transom? I see a 3 quart kit listed. Did you use the thick, Medium or thin resin? I'm thinking thin would penetrate better.

Just bought a 16' Grumman deep vee. Need to replace transom. Everyone thinks marine plywood is the bomb, but in reality the only difference between that and regular plywood is the marine version uses a higher grade of veneer, (i.e. no voids) and waterproof glue. In the past I have used...

Yep. Transom needs replaced. looks like the boat was in saltwater at some point. Motor has been replaced since then.

If I was closer I'd be interested.

Well, I went and looked at it, it is the Skidaddle model. I made an offer of $1000 because it is going to need a new transom before long. I think I can make it last for one summer and make it a project for next winter.

I have a 12' LoneStar that I wanna sell....PA is quite a drive for you though! :LOL2:

Looking for info on this Grumman boat. I'm thinking the model might be the "Skidaddle?" Don't know too much about it yet, other than what you can see in the picture. I'm guessing maybe mid-80's? Cowl on the motor might mot be the original color, but looks to be somewhere in the late 80's/early...

I put a 4 stroke on the back of an older tiller steer modV boat. Because of the extra weight it made the back of the boat sit too low in the water. Didn't have enough freeboard. Took the 4 stroke off and went back to a 2 stroke. Uses more fuel, but it's lighter, and a WHOLE LOT quicker...

Love the hull design. Bet she cuts the waves nice!

Agree that is probably either a discharge for your bilge or overflow for a livewell. Probably should have a nut on it like this:

Trying to locate HID# on a (I think) 1958 LoneStar Little Fisherman. Anyone know the location of the stamped number? Its not on the manufacturers tag.

In 1995 I bought a 14 foot boat. I bought regular 1/2" plywood, and painted it with 2 coats of fiberglass resin. I sold it to a friend years ago, but that plywood is still as hard as a rock. I think it might actually outlast the boat.

If you think your boat does not move at all on that trailer while you are going down the road at 65MPH you are wrong. Every bump in the road causes some movement. It may be small, but over time it adds up.

here is the other one. It measures just shy of 14 feet. There appears to have been a tag up near the bow at one time, but it has long since worn away along with most of the letters stamped there. Registration says "1955 VioHol.

I don't think that is like a dent you can pull like on a car. That rail is a structural piece of metal. Just get out there and enjoy the boat and the water!

Also, G3 can repair that for you if it really bugs you that much. There's an 1860 G3 CCJ on Syracuse Craigslist right now that had a tree fall on it. G3 replaced the gunwale and if the PO had taken the time to paint it before he posted pics of it, I doubt you would even know it had been...

Other than the damage you have pointed out, the rest of the boat looks to be in great condition. Accidents do happen. I would insist on a test run, and if everything checks out and you can get it for the right price, go for it! Unless you are still put off by the damage to the gunwale. I think...

Sorry this took so long Jim, have had a difficult summer this year. We caught some nice ones, but not huge numbers of fish. Beautiful weather and a week away from work.

That is why I remove the battery from the boat every time I charge it. I have never and will never charge my battery in the boat. One reason I still have a 12V trolling motor.