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Next two days will be yard work, spring window washing, and a lot of complaining about a sore back.

I could be all wet here (haha). It seems the small boat standard is to keep the boat level when it is completely swamped. I believe this doesn't mean the boat would remain above water. My understanding is it means instead of turning turtle, the boat stays level with the gunnels awash. The...

Nice boat. My 18' walk thru does 32 mph with a 50HP. But it is a lot lighter than that boat (750# dry weight). Same as what @airshot says, around here that would be a decent price (things are slightly higher west of the Rockies).

Welcome to Tin Boats! Shot in the dark -- Chrysler Lonestar Cruiseliner? Late 60's, early 70's? That is a lot of boat in 19'. Looks bigger. Are you going to fix it up?

In that link I posted above @airshot talks about using spray foam insulation to fill the gap, then trimming it down flush. I suppose then you would lay your floor cover on top of that right up to the edge.

Guys around here use those planer boards trolling grubs during the winter when water is cold and trout are shallow. Seems the basic reason is to get the bait out from behind the prop wash. I've not used them. Instead, I just use a longer set back. I'll still use the down riggers to get some...

Just tossing out some ideas -- instead of 1/2 ply maybe some 1/16 vinyl or PVC trim could be used to cover the gap? Somewhere is a thread with pics by @thill showing a new ply deck sealed with caulking around the edges. This one talks about filling a gap with Eva foam...

There are a couple schools of thought on this. My first choice would be to not try to seal the floor to the hull. Think about where you want water to drain? Do you want it sitting on top of the ply floor or draining off into the bilge? Additionally, if it is not completely water tight (which...

Welcome to TinBoats.net. I don't have an answer. Do you think this something that was original to the motor or a kit that was added later? I would say search MarineEngine.com for your motor, but suspect you may have already done that. Hopefully someone familiar with that year Evinrude...

I guess my perspective is to use the best practice to avoid corrosion down the road. Hopefully I'll still be using it years down the road. If not, maybe the next guy will say something nice about the previous owner taking care of the boat.

Following! I do a lot of trolling, just not for walleye.

Aw shoot. That is too bad. I forgot these pic's weren't your actual boat. Sorry about that. If I had to source one, I would take the old one to a metal fabricator and ask how much to fix it or make a new one. Back to the main question, I would leave the transom as is. Like @jethro says...

For some reason I thought we were talking about bolts used to mount the outboard. Now I think I was jumping to the wrong conclusion.

"I imagine some boats have a factory console that is aluminum?" Definitely yes. I would say most all aluminum boats with consoles have aluminum consoles.

This is terrific advice. If it runs well, why change it. Don't fix what ain't broke.

I apologize for a slightly off topic question (again). I note that TimeUSB sells Group 24 100Ah and Group 31 100Ah. Since they both have the same amp-hour rating, why would someone want the group 31 over the group 24?

Was that 9.9 made by Vandelay Industries? :)

I see we have a new TB sponsor for LiFEPO4 batteries named Goldenmate.

"Best"-- I don't know. Stain with varnish looks great in my opinion. You will have to renew the varnish from time-to-time as part of normal upkeep.

I have side bunks like the ones in your link, which by the way is a pretty darn good price. I think I paid about 3x that. I like them a lot, especially in the wind. If I were doing it again, I think I would opt for the longer 5' ones that mount on two brackets.