Search results

No help technically, though I used to work a LOT with NMEA connectivity and I have to wonder... for $250 do you at least get a choice of blonde, or brunette? :-)

A good reason to have a battery switch.

When in doubt a thicker wire than you think you need is generally a good idea. The folks on solar power forums have power down and suppliers who can gen up anything you need. I recently bought a length of 1/0 wire for my inverter which was expensive but well worth it. If you use Ebay, see this...

Nice stuff Dale.

I made my transducer mount from a piece of starboard. The transducer itself I mounted with all stainless nylock nuts which I recessed on the side facing the boat so the screws did not touch the transom. If I change transducers no problem, pull the starboard, mark and drill the new hole pattern.

For low current applications SAE are great connectors, but the HEAVY duty ones are a PITA to securely solder. An option as mentioned above might be an Anderson to SAE adapter to keep from having to remove what's already in place.

Agreed, to my way of thinking you did what you could with the time you had. Many would have just left the area.

People put a "fin" on to try to get the boat on plane, likely because the motor is under powered. If you find you're happy with it and being a 2 stroke, go slow :-)

People put a "fin" on to try to get the boat on plane, likely because the motor is under powered. If you find you're happy with it and being a 2 stroke, go slow :-)

Looks like a cool boat! I always wonder about boats with small motors and a dol-fin( or whatever it's called) and whether a re-power is in the long run a better prospect. Let us know how she handles when you christen it?

Add to that the water is pristine, flowing and crystal clear. That is VERY odd in south Florida. It's sooo tempting to carve them up right there and fry them up. But I'm a C&R type always will be.

Last fall my GF moved into a villa in a gated community circled by a ~15' wide canal. I haven't been able to get out much, but I caught this one there in a couple of feet of water. Her son got a 5 pounder there a couple of months ago.

I got most all of the parts in and can start assembly, temperature and current analysis this weekend. We'll see!

Yeah, initially I thought so too, but we had some 50 12 volt lead acid batteries in our corporate UPS which basically NEVER cycled down below 95% before they were topped off by the UPS charger. We had a few batteries (which were in 75-80 degree ambient) go bad after a few years and some sales...

I had to read that twice to make sure I got it the first time. Good thinking.

I use a single 35Ah Solar brand AGM deep cycle battery for all of my electronics (DF, bilge, lights, horn, fan, GPS, Gopro (2x) and USB charger for my phones) and don't worry about power at all. The one at Harbor freight is something like 25 lbs, and $60 and no core charge. They're too light and...

I'm torn on this issue. Experts say anything above 85 on a battery that gets cycled often is bad for it but car batteries last a LONG time in a pretty hot environment. That said since mine are in the sun full time and being charged and discharged often, I'm taking the safe cooler route.

Solar panels (~18 volt rated for 12v systems go up to around 200 watts max) are about a dollar per watt (less if you shop right) the larger you go in wattage, the less expensive. Smaller 100 watt panels can go as high as $1.50 per watt. If you go for over 200 watt panels for higher voltage...

My setup is obviously not for boating but I have two (soon to be three) 80 Ah batteries being charged by over 450 watts of solar cells running my outdoor lighting, and water feature pumps. Since my batteries are in direct sunlight shaded only by a dense bush in a pot, I'm building a dual...

I just bought their largest deep cycle battery for my solar array. I plan on adding another one later on. The closest I can get in a "better" AGM is over $300 and I'll take my chances wit a $99 battery and see.