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I told myself I was going to follow up with a post but my mind wandered to other projects. Man that little screw was committed to staying put. I tried to get it out using a screw extractor kit without luck. Then I started drilling. She never did let go and I ended up drilling straight through...

Replacing my trailer hubs with a CE Smith hub kit. Wasted $30 by ordering the wrong size, now the correct size still isn’t working. Figured out I’m missing the washer that goes in between the castle but and the outer bearing, so the outer bearing is falling out of the hub a little bit. Any...

Yes the drilling through and using a nut/bolt is what I’m going to end up doing. I’m not sure why I didn’t think of that sooner. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Should have clarified, I know welding is the best option but unfortunately I don’t have a torch or know anyone that does. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Well I’m really in a pickle here. I was trying to get this screw out on the steering cable bracket to replace a spring lock on the side of my motor and apparently didn’t know my own strength. The screw sheared off making it flush with the motor. Any tips for removing a sheered screw? Thought of...

Great info, thanks for sharing.

Yes, it does exhaust out the back, which you're right is a big factor.

Thanks. It's good to hear from someone who has actually tackled this project. The older 2-strokes are pretty noisy. I know it comes with the territory with 2-strokes, but I don't mind giving it a shot. One more question, did the adhesive alone stick okay, or did you have to add some spray...

Thanks. Has this held up to heat okay? How significant of a difference did it make sound wise? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Jim, I just sent you a PM. Let me know if you're still looking for someone to do this.

Two posts in two days, can you tell my mind is on getting the boat ready for spring??? I've got a 1978 Johnson 35 hp with remote controls. My controls setup is identical to the one at this link...

Thanks Dale. Lead-lined being Noico/Dynamat type of stuff? Or is that something different?

That being said, I just found this on Amazon that may do the trick. 10 square feet may be all I need. https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B01KZ5X7KO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1YMPQZDM9WBH30HGG91Q

I'm sure you are correct. Not sure if I care enough to spend the money on foam. If anything, I just need to tear the foam out and clean up the inside of the cowling before it starts falling off and makes a mess of the motor. Thanks for your thoughts!

I’ve seen that stuff, Dynamat. Probably $75-$100 to do my little motor. Spray can is $6 so I may risk it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I run a 1978 Johnson 35 hp. The motor is in pretty good shape and I’m trying to my best to get it cleaned up. The foam that lines the inside of the motor cowling is largely missing or deteriorated. I’d like to get it cleaned up, especially for the benefit of noise reduction. Obviously a 40...

That's a great point, and I'm glad you brought it up. Even if I have to put another $400 into this thing, I'll have a running and working 35hp for $800. That's still a pretty good deal.

@Rocs my biggest issue at this point is cost. I’ve read a few places that if the clutch dog is bad, chances are that the gears are as well. A new gear set is about $300. At that price I’ll be looking at new motors! I only paid $400 for this motor to begin with. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There’s no question about the benefits of aluminum for the sake of durability. That being said, I like boat building so I’m sure that by the time this wood wears out I’ll be ready to rebuild it anyways. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk