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The thinking is that if you take water over the bow, it can run out the back, over the transom. If you go to thehulltruth.com and search for notched transom vs euro transom there are about 1 million posts....

If it had true "bottom paint" on it, I would imagine that it is galvanic corrosion. Many bottom paints for saltwater boats use copper as an algaecide to prevent bottom fouling. That on the aluminum is recipe for disaster. As to how to help you...I have no clue. Sorry.

For coatings, here is my order... 1. Epoxy Resin. Try West system 105. 2. Vinylesther resin. Cheaper, but not as awesome...mildly awesome. 3. Urethane....doesn't matter what kind. 4 A-Z paint. Too many to mention here. 5. Leave it bare. . . 139452. Thompson's or the like.

Look, I am a wood scientist by education, and I would not use ANY form of treated wood in my tin boat. If you think that the "new stuff" will not cause as much corrosion, just look at the new coatings for fasteners that is recommended nowadays. Most of those screws have a plastic or ceramic...

Don't waste the money on marine grade ply. It is not any more weather resistant than good ol' outdoor ply from the big box stores. It will save you some cash. Get a B/C sanded and the bedliner will go over it nicely. I would get some fiberglass resin and coat it first, both sides and edges (I...

On the bilge pump.....BIGGER IS BETTER. Especially if you ever have a catastrophe. It may my save the boat, but it might buy you time.

I've written on this before...do a search on my screen name and you will find it... Here is my list again: 1. Epoxy resin (West system makes a UV stabilized version if you are not carpeting) 2. Polyester resin aka regular fiberglass resin 3. Some sort of urethane 4. Oil based paint 5. Latex...

Nope, only treatments out there involve copper...

Use the plastic. The brass can cause galvanic corrosion much like the copper in treated wood. Unless you want to add a grounding system and a magnesium anode... :shock:

That is good info about the APA standards, but I am still looking for the BS1088 standard for plywood and the WBP standard for glue...I think that this is a Lloyd's of London standard that many imported plwoods use.

Alright guys, I have had a couple of requests for information, and I thought that this might be a good place to start. As an intro, My name is Clay, I live in Mississippi, and I am a wood scientist. I have been working in the wood industry for about 10 years in various roles. I was degreed by...

I have worked on many boats with twins, from my last boat with twin 225 Johnsons, to a 38' egg harbor with 600 hp diesels. ALL had separate filters. Why? Well, something like 90% of issues on the water arise from fuel, and especially now with ethanol percentages sneaking upward, this is not...

'Does young wood rot easier than old wood?' Well, yes and no...and it depends. LOL Back in the day, all wood that was harvested was old growth (meaning non-plantation) and some say it had more rot resistance than a younger tree of the same species. Hard to prove since there is not much, if any...

Oh...and Perchin... I think that there is a West System epoxy that is UV stabilized, and clear so you can use it like varnish, and it will last three to five years in the weather. I saw it while watching Ship Shape TV, he was decking the floor of Alumacraft. Good show, but dont believe the BS...

'wood will rot from the inside out'.... Nope. If you seal plywood, it is dried to about 5% moisture content after pressing. That water is referred to as 'bound' water, meaning that it is within the cells of the wood. Even pine lumber, which is usually dried to 15% or 19% (the grade stamp will...

As a wood scientist by trade and education, here is my professional opinion.... Thompson's is a waste of money...all it is is a wax emulsion that will last a few weeks. The wax will 'float' off sooner or later. It ony sits on top of the wood, with little adhesion. Next best is a oil based...