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Yeah that’s what I’m figuring. Which is still fine for my setup. Maybe in the future will upgrade to lithium and run 24v

Got it! Thank you!

The fuse panel feed runs through one of the switches breakers which I was going to use for the nav lights so not much use. Does that change things or would you still recommend the extra fuse/breaker after the cut off switch?

This is the diagram I made for it.

Sorry for the confusion. The TM will not be attached to the switch panel. Forgot to put in that I will have a pos bus after the I/O so from the bus will have 16 gauge wire to go to the switch panel and then the 8 gauge wire to the trolling motor which has its awn dedicated fuse on it.

Thank you. I got the negative bus bar and planning on mounting it next to the panel. Now I guess different questions are coming to light. My switch panel has a 16 gauge wire for its power. I was gonna run a 6 gauge wire from my battery to the I/O switch and then from there run to my panel. Can...

Yes it is. I’m realizing that now. I honestly ran it all last season on my 12v and didn’t have any issues. I’m gonna reach out to Newport to see if I can co time to run it or if I’m gonna hurt the motor doing so.

Hello! First time posting here! I inherited a 12ft MirroCraft with a 6hp Johnson. That I am finally starting to build out. Nothing major at all and I will post pics when it gets started. I am working on the electrical aspect of the boat first and trying to figure it out. So I am not putting much...