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That vinyl isn't as easy as it looks, is it Terry?!

I'm a big fan of the kiln dried CCA pressure treated marine grade plywood. The Chromated Copper Arsenate treated plywood won't corrode aluminum like the ASQ treated will. The CCA plywood comes with a lifetime warranty and won't rot even if it gets wet, but I still seal it with 4 coats of marine...

Long and narrow will have side to side stability issues, but shouldn't be too bad. I like it!!! Check to make sure the foam isn't wet before putting any work into it. You can take a core sample by shoving a 1/2" pipe into the foam and pulling out a plug. Check it at the bottom, if the plug...

Looks like galvanic corrosion to me, trapped water that has sat and the oxygen has been depleted. As the oxygen depletes the water becomes acidic and pits/corrodes the aluminum. The best fix is to prep, fill the pitting with a epoxy type filler like JB Weld marine or Loc-tite Marine epoxy...

I suggest something like this: https://www.durabakcompany.com/marine.htm The problem with carpet and the Seadek materials is that they absorb and trap water, this will lead to mildew problems and galvanic corrosion of the aluminum decking... and the carpet type materials will stain , look...

Yeah, I'd have left the seats in and decked right over the top of the benches The hollow area under the deck between the seats can be used for storage and additional floatation foam. With the foam gone now that boat will sink to the bottom like a rock, not something I would want my boat to do in...

You can buy the rivets here: https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html You can buy the setting tool there too, or you can get one from Harbor Freight for $20. You can get Loc-tite marine epoxy from Home Depot or Wal-Mart... or you can use 5200, but 5200...

When filling a boat with water for a leak test, watch your trailer tires to judge the weight load. The easiest long lasting way to fix leaky rivets is like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0MA1-5NXjs&feature=related

I see a lot of room in that boat for foam, storage, and a livewell. That hull is basically the same hull I'm working with right now: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36143 We have 18+ cu. ft. of floatation foam in the boat now and room for more if we want, also have storage...

Bench seats aren't designed to withstand the lateral forces that filling it with water would create. Other than bowing the front and back sides out, the weight of the water will eventually weaken the rivets that hold the sides to the hull and you'll end up with a leaky livewell and leaky boat...

It sounds like you have quite a bit of work to do to make that boat safe/sea worthy before you start thinking about a livewell. 1. Remove and replace pressure treated lumber with non-pressure treated lumber. (PT is highly corrosive to aluminum) 2. Install bracing or decks to compensate for the...

I buy all of my rivets from Jay-Cees Rivets Online: https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html Best prices and fast shipping. Anyone that owns an aluminum boat should have an assortment of blind rivets and a setting tool or 2.

As mentioned above, MDF isn't suitable for boats or a marine environment. 1/2" isn't strong enough to support the leveraged thrust of a pedestal seat without some sort of backer plate installed below the decking. I suggest a minimum of 5/8" decking for pedestal seats. Use 1/4-20 stainless steel...

This is the easiest way to fill holes and replace rivets in an aluminum boat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0MA1-5NXjs&feature=related The rivets are closed end blind rivets, not the regular open end type.

With the water stain that high on the transom it looks like that boat has sat in the water and filled with water for quite some time, you should seriously consider replacing the transom wood.

Got the rear deck put together today: Going to work on the front deck tomorrow.

UPDATE: Got some more work done on the tin can: Hung the side console More foam below the main deck. Laid the main decking in and starting the rear deck design. Main deck installed and fastened with pedestals laid out and T-nuts below for fasteners. Rear deck framed with bulkheads...

Personally, I wouldn't be taking that boat "off shore". That design is a "Bay Boat" at best.

I would raise the area between the front deck and the console and leave the area between the console and rear deck as is. This will allow you to operate your boat comfortably and safely while giving you more room for storage and floatation. Another option I see is to raise the front deck area...

Consider losing the PT plywood, PT chemicals and aluminum don't get along well at all because they're corrosive. Regular exterior grade plywood sealed with paint will last quite a while.