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14' Gamefisher leaking rivets
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<blockquote data-quote="DaleH" data-source="post: 475832" data-attributes="member: 15636"><p>Well 5200 itself can corrode tin if the tin isn't primed beforehand. The neat trick on the G-Flex 650 is the tin can be warmed so the goop weeps into holes you can't even see. I think if it were mine, I'd turn it over, scrub areas to be gooped with white vinegar and a copper scrub brush, then rinse well. Would use the G-F 650 product as per the various PDFs I've posted, or go to the West Systems site, and would then paint the bottom or where rivets were covered. Could even do from bother sides to ensure sealing them. That G-F is significantly more viscous (thin, penetrating) than 5200 ever hopes to be. </p><p></p><p>I see people Steel-Flex the entire hull, even panels where there's no rivets, as the co$t of that product is not inexpensive and while yes it is good, I wonder why they just don't consider the G-F 650 on the rivets option ...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DaleH, post: 475832, member: 15636"] Well 5200 itself can corrode tin if the tin isn't primed beforehand. The neat trick on the G-Flex 650 is the tin can be warmed so the goop weeps into holes you can't even see. I think if it were mine, I'd turn it over, scrub areas to be gooped with white vinegar and a copper scrub brush, then rinse well. Would use the G-F 650 product as per the various PDFs I've posted, or go to the West Systems site, and would then paint the bottom or where rivets were covered. Could even do from bother sides to ensure sealing them. That G-F is significantly more viscous (thin, penetrating) than 5200 ever hopes to be. I see people Steel-Flex the entire hull, even panels where there's no rivets, as the co$t of that product is not inexpensive and while yes it is good, I wonder why they just don't consider the G-F 650 on the rivets option ... [/QUOTE]
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14' Gamefisher leaking rivets
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