17' Empire Duck Boat Restoration / Mod

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jimmyjams4110

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It's been my first time modifying an all welded aluminum boat and wanted to ask a couple of questions since the majority of the information I've used to do the project was from here. Little back story, I bought a 2000 17.5' Empire Jon boat a month or so ago, wasn't set up ideally for fishing so I went out and bought some aluminum, cut it up, and had a buddy weld it for me. I extended the front deck, the rear deck, lowered the console height/ moved it forward, and leveled the floor. I reached a point where I'm getting ready for paint prep, here's my questions.

1. There's seams where my deck extensions connect to the edge of the existing deck, the existing deck had a rolled edge. What's the best way of covering up this seam before priming? Epoxy stick, filler, 5200, more welding and grinding? I'd like it to look like one solid piece after painting.

2. I'm using SW Kem400 in Cobblestone as my base color, had to order it from Little Rock, and plan on painting this thing Nat Gear in the end. They recommended that I put down a self etching primer on all the bare aluminum and scuff up the existing paint if adhered well and that'll do it. My plan is to hit the boat with 120 grit throughout including the bare aluminum, clean it thouroughly, prime the bare metal with Duplicolor Rattle can Self etching primer, and spray my base with gun. Do I need to use an epoxy primer on the entire boat after i Self etched the bare metal or is my plan ok?

Here's some picks of my build and the seams I talked about above. Thanks for any reply or help, Jimmy.

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1. Could give 2-part epoxy a shot or aluminum body filler. Deck may flex at the joints and crack either product...not sure...just spit balling. Maybe buddy can lay a full bead instead of stitch? Another option that I used once: cover the seam with grip tape...you can paint right over it.
 
I say keep stitching that weld until it's filled in. Either that or look into some auto body seam filler, something that would remain somewhat flexible after curing, yet is paintable.
 
Thank you for the comments. We continued the stitch all the way, staggering the locations to minimize metal distortion. Worked out pretty dang well! After that, I grinded down any high spots, scuffed up the seam and both sides and filled with metal reinforced bondo. End result is what I hoped for. Got the topside primed and hoping to paint tomorrow.

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First time I've seen someone use bondo on there tin, bet it won't be the last after seeing the end result. Man that looks factory.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
All done with the cosmetics, time to pop the motor on and get to work!
 

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I'm am finished. it's been a fun and enjoyable process, will do again. Fits perfectly snug in the garage too! Here's the final product.
 

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Thanks, pretty proud of the fit. Actually made the platform in the garage and had a buddy weld it up. Bought a $100 12 ton pipe bender from harbor freight, used 1 1/2" SCH 40 pipe for the main legs, used 1 1/4" pipe for the front legs that bend up, and used 1" for the deck band, the top is 1/8" sheet scrap I had from the boat mods. Used 2" x 1 1/2" angle for the supports, 1/4" thick. I just ordered all the stuff from Amazon except for the sheet for about $80.00, welder hooked me up with the scrap piece of Hydroturf. Paid my welder with promise of covering gas money in any summer fishing trip. Much better than paying someone $500+ and not getting exactly what you want.
 

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