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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Axhammer" data-source="post: 500662" data-attributes="member: 16767">Whatever you plan on using to treat or preserve the wood, it should be done to every side and edge, even inside any holes. Let it cure and treat it a second time, every edge, side or nook & cranny. Let it cure a second time.When installing the wood (or the aluminum plate) to the aluminum boat, the 5200 is applied to the two mating surfaces only, this is called a “fayed surface”.Each mating surface should be scuffed or roughed-up for better adhesion. Hand scuffing with 80 grit, or grinding with a flap wheel, whatever you are comfortable with. After both surfaces are scuffed, they both need to be cleaned with acetone. Clean everything getting sealed or bonded with acetone.Apply and spread the 5200 heavy enough to get 100% contact with a little squeeze-out.Dip, roll or brush 5200 on each fastener prior to inserting the fastener into each hole.If you do this, you will have a very strong air/water tight repair…the best you can get in my opinion.I found a YouTube video showing how to make a live well. The way this person sealed his live well, is a good example of how EVERY permanent repair should be installed when repairing a tin boat, in my opinion. I took a screen shot of what I am talking about.Just to be perfectly clear, when I repair and assemble my 1751 project, unless it is welded, every permanent part will go together wet with 5200 or equivalent. If it’s not permanent, and may opened-up occasionally, then don’t seal it with 5200.</blockquote>

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