TinBoats.net
The original aluminum boat site!
Forums
New posts
Search forums
Blog
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Boats
Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1973 Monark transom/stress crack repair
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support TinBoats.net:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="DaleH" data-source="post: 519632" data-attributes="member: 15636"><p>Yes, <strong>it could, <u>and will</u> (especially if used in saltwater!), <em>if not properly isolated</em></strong>, but the hull I added this to was fiberglass, not tin ...</p><p></p><p>Simple isloation for anything SS to tin can be accomplished by layers of duct tape, heatshrink on bolt/fasteners bodies, or nylon washers, just for example. For bolts, the US Navy even developed a 'goop' made expressly for use when adding SS hardware or bolts to their aluminum hulled detroyers and frigates, called "Tef-Gel". Expen<span style="color: rgb(226, 80, 65)"><strong>$</strong></span>ive, but works!</p><p></p><p>My 1st tin hull refurb done 30-years ago or more ... I just used layers of duct tape to isolate the SS panels and/or hardware from the tin hull. About 20-years later the guy I sold it too called me and asked for advice on how I particularly attached something. Long story shortened ... he brought the boat to my house, I took apart that feature ... and lo' and behold, the duct tape was still sound and there was ZERO evidence of any galvanic corrosion between the 2 dissimilar materials, even on the SS bolt bodies or the surround tin they pierced through!</p><p></p><p></p><p>I agree 110%, good thinkin'!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DaleH, post: 519632, member: 15636"] Yes, [B]it could, [U]and will[/U] (especially if used in saltwater!), [I]if not properly isolated[/I][/B], but the hull I added this to was fiberglass, not tin ... Simple isloation for anything SS to tin can be accomplished by layers of duct tape, heatshrink on bolt/fasteners bodies, or nylon washers, just for example. For bolts, the US Navy even developed a 'goop' made expressly for use when adding SS hardware or bolts to their aluminum hulled detroyers and frigates, called "Tef-Gel". Expen[COLOR=rgb(226, 80, 65)][B]$[/B][/COLOR]ive, but works! My 1st tin hull refurb done 30-years ago or more ... I just used layers of duct tape to isolate the SS panels and/or hardware from the tin hull. About 20-years later the guy I sold it too called me and asked for advice on how I particularly attached something. Long story shortened ... he brought the boat to my house, I took apart that feature ... and lo' and behold, the duct tape was still sound and there was ZERO evidence of any galvanic corrosion between the 2 dissimilar materials, even on the SS bolt bodies or the surround tin they pierced through! I agree 110%, good thinkin'! [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Boats
Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1973 Monark transom/stress crack repair
Top