1986 Bass Tracker Guide Special V-16 restoration

[TXTracker2311]

Hey guys,

I just picked up my first boat. It was completely gutted when I picked it up. Only wood that I know about on the boat was still being digest in a termite hanging around. I've been cleaning the interior allday. Getting the old carpet and old particles of wood that has literally crumbled off the bottom of the carpet.

Tomorrow I'm going to start on the transom. Does anyone know the thickness the transom would be? The only parts left on mine are crumbling with every minor touch. There is a little slot on the bottom that is measuring 1.25" but not sure how I would get that thickness unless I glued two pieces together, a 3/4" and a 1/2".

I'll try to figure out how to upload my pictures of my boat.

 

[Fire1386]

There are several tracker restores in here, which should help you greatly with yours..... Good luck

 

[TXTracker2311]

Thanks fire, I started searching and was actually able to find one similar to mine. He said that he had to use a piece of 3/4 and 1/2 to get the correct thickness. Looks like I'll be headed to McCoy's to pick up some exterior wood.

What is everyone using to seal the wood once cut? What about gluing them together. I saw someone say they used gorilla glue and 1" screws.

 

[TXTracker2311]

Idk why is flips all the pics sideways.

 

[Hanr3]

Sounds like a project for sure.
I wood work, cabinets and such. Glue will be sufficient and you will need to clamp those boards together until the glue dries. This will take some serious clamps and backing boards, something without give. I use Oak 1x3 and stand it on its side (1" side). Takes a lot of force to bend 3" thick oak boards, they will provide the even clamping force you need. I also recommend pipe or bar clamps to apply the clamping force. Space a set about every 12". IF you don't have this type of equipment, the next best thing is one heck of a heavy weight with a large enough solid inflexible surface to cover the whole transom. If that is out, mechanical fasteners (Screws) will suffice. If you do use screws to clamp the boards together, remove when the glue has dried and fill the holes with wood putty. Or you could make your own putty with some of that glue and sawdust. Mix equal parts of each and fill the holds with a putty knife. You must force the putty into place. You could leave the screws, however they will rot, even if sealed. They will sweat under the sun and the wood will absorb that sweat, over time it will wood rot from the inside out.

They make and sell thicker plywood, or my favorite is 5/4 white oak solid lumber. Yes, it is called 5/4. It is 1.25" thick. White Oak, not red oak. White oak is the best to resist rot and has been used in ship building for centuries. Your local hardwood lumber supplier should have it in stock. Around me it's about $6 per board foot. Don't worry if you can't get it in the width you need. Simple wood joinery techniques can be used to get any width you want. If this is beyond your skills or tools, a local wood shop could glue it up for you. White Oak is the strongest and best wood transom money can buy. Anything else is a compromise. It may seem like overkill for your boating application, however it will outlast all of us, even with holes drilled through it and below the surface. Plus if its exposed and stained, varnished/polyurethane it is beautiful.

Having said all that, most decide white oak is beyond their means or practicality and use plywood. If you must use plywood, use the best grade you can afford and not pressure treated. You want a plywood without voids and as many layers as you can get. 3 payer plywood is cheap and flexible, 5 layer is a little better, 13 layer is what your looking for at minimum. No voids. I do caution about going to the big box stores for your plywood. Its inexpensive for a reason. The transom is the one area you don't want to do over. Fork out the dough and get the good stuff.

 

[onthewater102]

Someone on here laminated square tube aluminum between two sheets of aluminum plate and made an all-aluminum transom - for some reason i didn't save the link but i know it was someone on this site.

 

[Hanr3]

Someone on here laminated square tube aluminum between two sheets of aluminum plate and made an all-aluminum transom - for some reason i didn't save the link but i know it was someone on this site.

Sounds like a great idea. A honey comb transom made from aluminum. Nice!!! I'd like to see that.

 

[BigTerp]

Here is my response to another poster who recently had some questions on replacing a transom. Some of it probably doesn't apply to you, but it should still point you in the right direction.

A few suggestions from my experience replacing the transom in my 1648:

1. Rough cut your wood, glue and THEN cut to size. Much easier to cut the final piece to size than trying to cut 2 seperate pieces exactly the same size. This also allows you to screw around the perimeter to "clamp" the wood while drying without putting holes in your final piece. It doesn't have to be perfect (mine certainly wasn't) but you want to try and get it as close to the original as possible.

2. I'd suggest sealing the wood, once you have it glued and ready to go (titebond III is what i used), with some epoxy resin. I replaced my transom almost 4 years ago and it's as good as new. It does stay covered outside, but gets put through the ringer year round hunting and fishing. I'd imagine my transom will outlast me.

3. Do not drill your new transom holes from the old wood, use the actually transom as a template. What I did was had my wife hold the new wood up to the transom while I drilled the top 2 mounting holes. I then bolted them into place and then, using the existing holes in the hull itself, I drilled out the remainder of the holes. Everything then lined up really well. I did this after my second coat of epoxy. This allowed for the last coat of epoxy and the coats of urethane to seal up the holes a bit.

4. If you go the epoxy resin route, get some good spar urethane that is UV resistant to protect your transom from the sun.

5. Take a few pictures of the original transom and bracing before you remove it. I couldn't remember how a few pieces lined up but luckly I had taken pictures of the boat when I first brought her home. Was nice having that reference.


I didn't have to cut any bracing out to replace my transom. My knee braces were secured to the hull with solid rivets. But I did do a LOT of aluminum work putting in a floor, deck and hatches. I used an angle grinder with these blades from Home Depot for all of my aluminum cuts. The wheels are thinner than standard grinder wheels and cut quicker through aluminum, but they do wear out faster than standard blades. Worked great for me. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-4-1-2 ... /202830995

Here is the start of the transom work in my build thread. Hope it helps.......viewtopic.php?f=83&t=26774&start=30

 

[TXTracker2311]

Han,

Unfortunately, I already started cutting the plywood before I saw your post. It's just 5 layer plywood unfortunately. Not many places sell the 13 layer ply around me. If I ever do have to redo the transom God forbid. I know a guy that sells 2x8 kiln dried here in East texas. I'll just have to get it planed down.

I went ahead and cut the plywood to 22"x 68" then, I glued the two together with Titebond 3 and fastened them with wood screws. It's been drying for about 36 hours now. When I remove the screws I will be injecting holes with Bondo fiberglass resin. Then I will be coating the entire transom with a coat or two of the same Bondo resin.

My brother said I over killed the transom. 65 screws over the entire transom starting from the center and worked my way out.


https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=15343&start=60

Pretty sure this is the link you are looking for. It's the one I found that had the same transom as mine. Just a foot longer.

 

[TXTracker2311]

Well I finally got the transom built. Ill be finishing up the install today. Have to run to Lowes to get some new bolts. A lot of my heads were stripped in the removal process. The rubber washers were also pretty brittle. Once I get the transom replaced I want to get the trailer rebuilt. Including new hubs, new wiring, new lights and a new paint job.

I've also been thinking about raising the font deck up enough to be level with the side boxes which is 3.25". Only issue with that is the cubby hole up front will be pretty useless. What are yalls thoughts?

 

[BigTerp]

You could put a hatch on the deck to access that cubby hole area. I extended my front deck about 24" and added hatches to the extended part of the deck. With the middle hatch I can reach forward and access the cubby hole that is similar to yours. I use that area to store extra life jackets, a dry bag and other odds and ends that I don't worry about getting banged up or a little wet. I didn't raise my deck though, just extended it.

 

[TXTracker2311]

Well I still haven't got my transom completely installed. When I went to Lowes they didn't have enough rubber washers for the 16 bolts that go through the transom. So I bought what they had and installed roughly 8 of them. Then earlier this week I bought more and they have been riding around in my wife's car and I keep forgetting to get them out.

I was planning to leave all the foam in the boat but after I dug into on section the whole interior of the piece was saturated with water. Out it all came. What a chore. There is still a little bit glue on the walls but not much. Prolly take a wire wheel and no it all off. I'll be reinstalling the foam sheets they sell at Lowe's and Home depot.

Pics to come

 

[TXTracker2311]

I guess I only had one picture of the progress on my phone that I had more. I guess it will do for now.

Bigterp- I've been thinking about the whole keeping the height and just extending it out some like yours. But after being in the boat and looking at it having all the different heights. I think I'm just going to raise it. Shouldn't be that hard. I figure if I get a straight edge and set it on those compartments on the side. Then line it up so it's just above the angle iron on the hull. That should give me the height I need. Then just drill those brackets out and come up to the correct height. Mark it drill new holes and rivet them in place. This will also give me a few more inches of storage space. About that cubby hole. I think I'll take it to a weld shop and have them weld it up or just hand brake a new sheet. It's like 1/16" aluminium. Shouldn't be that hard to bend with a brake.