1997 Sylvan 16' Back Troller Select complete remodel

[Hanr3]

Hello All,

I have been away for a little while. I do pop in from time to time to check out the builds. This site is getting better and better every year. You all made that happen. Keep it up.

I have been Crappie fishing with my remodeled '67 Alumacraft 14'' boat since I rebuilt it, link to build in my signature. I also started a Crappie Club and host about 8-9 tournaments per year. While I am not the fastest boat, and typically the smallest boat, that hasn't stopped me from winning. Had some life changes and decided it was time to step up to a bigger boat.

What I wanted in my next boat.
Used and in poor condition so I can rebuild it. Cheap.
16' long- I have a 20' deep garage. A 16' boat with motor and trailer is about all that will fit.
No more than 7'6" wide. Garage is is narrow two stall. Plus when I put the boat up for the winter it must fit under the lean-to section of my shed. Lean-to side is 8' wide.
30 gallon or so live-well.
40-60hp 2 stroke Johnson/Evenrude motor.
Built in gas tank.
Prefer Alumacraft or Lund brand.
Roller trailer.
Pretty much my requirements.

The goal was to buy it this fall and rebuild it over the winter. Well, that was the plan. God had other ideas. The wife and I determined the best time to replace my right knee was Thanksgiving week. Traditionally December/January are the slow months at work. Best time to miss work, plus its winter so I won't be missing fishing season. Around here we get 32-35 degrees temps and rain, no ice fishing, and when we do get ice, its not thick enough to be safe. Today its raining ice.

While at Crappie.com spring camp this year the site owner brought down a 16' boat he wanted to sell. He is moving to Florida and has a boat there, no need for this one. Plus the 16' he brought was in rough shape. I gave it a once over, and made an unrealistic offer. He declined. Next day we had a few beers over dinner and he asked me if I was interested in the boat and he would make me a heck of a deal, not as good as I offered, but a realistic number. Cleared it with the accountant and we came to a number. I made two trips home the next morning, first trip with the 14' in tow and the second trip with the 16' in tow.

 

[Hanr3]

Short video of the way she looked when I bought her.

First thing I did when I got her home was break the skeg off backing up the driveway. You will see it in the video below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8egxKiZS8s

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8egxKiZS8s[/youtube]

 

[Hanr3]

What did I end up with?

16' Sylvan Back Troller Select.
40 hp 2 stroke Evinrude.
30 gallon live-well on the port side of the boat.
MinnKota Edge 55 pd 12 volt trolling motor.
Garmin fish finder.
4 life jackets.
3 seats in great shape.
Numerous plastic cut in lids.
2 brand new batteries, Deep cycle group 29 for trolling motor, and a starting/deep cycle for the Evinrude and accessories.
Shorelandr galvanized roller trailer with full-size spare tire.
Various other odds and ends, plus some new crappie tackle.
The price was right, and the timing worked out.

First thing I did was break the skeg off backing up my driveway.
Had to get that repaired. Found a local aluminum welder who charged me $20.

 

[Hanr3]

Okay, next step. Tear Down.

I could post about 400 pictures, but would rather post up a time lapse video. =D>

In the video, all the loose foam is being piled on the left side, and everything else is being piled on the right side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFIog1fWysA

I stripped it down to foam and stringers.

 

[bonz_d]

Very fine looking rig there. So what's the plan? Any changes or staying original?

 

[Hanr3]

I spent a couple of days working my way through the electrical wiring. Basically, it was a birds nest and has been repaired numerous times of the decades. Decided to remove all wiring as well. I cut out and fit the cabin deck pieces. Then realized I haven't checked for leaks yet. Well, since we have had a very unusually wet spring, early summer I figured I'd save some money on my water bill and let mother nature fill her up. Put the plug in and let it sit in the back yard over night. Vola, she filled to the cabin deck.

Hard to see in the pictures, however the water is up to the yellow cabin deck boards.




The piece in the aft center of the boat with the hole in the middle, under that is the gas tank. You can see the end of the tank, white. The hole in the deck is the access hole to the fuel gage sending unit.

The deck board on the bow, that is the deck under the bow storage. Plus the live-well will sit on top of that board. There will be a below deck rod storage in this boat. See the space filled with water, that will be the below deck rod storage and it runs under the bow under deck storage. Think of it this way, there are three levels. Below deck, cabin deck, and bow deck. Bow deck will wrap around the boat.

Back to leak checking. I crawled under the boat, and didn't find a drop. No leaks! Pulled the plug and let her drain for a few days. More rain coming so I moved her into the garage. To fit in the garage I must cut the tongue. I installed a swing a-way tongue. I had to cut off 30" of tongue to get the clearance I needed to fit the boat in the garage with motor tilted up. I reattached the 30" piece using the swing-away kit. Kit works perfect. I had to wire on a new plug and replaced the chains while I was there. Also added some wire harness material to protect the wiring while swinging the tongue.

 

[Hanr3]

Very fine looking rig there. So what's the plan? Any changes or staying original?[/quote

Thanks bonz_d!

Plan, what plan? #-o

Plan is simple.
Alumacraft Classic with a few modifications. One of the reasons I wanted an Alumacraft, specifically the Classic. Would have made modifications easier. Well, as it turned out. This boat can be configured like the Classic.

I mentioned life changes as the reason for a new boat. That would be grand kids.
I want a deep V for safety, their safety.
I suspect there may be times where there are 5 or 6 of us in the boat fishing. Me, each of my sons and a couple of grand kids. As they get older that will change. Obviously the boat has weight limits.

The boat layout is simple.
3 seat bases on the bow for spider fishing. If its just me, use one seat, two of us, use the outside seats, or all three.
I want the live-well / bait-well in the bow and right behind the seats.
I need rod storage, and will put in a starboard rod storage locker. Plus a bonus under cabin deck rod storage locker. The starboard rod locker holds up to 8' rods, and the under cabin deck rod holder is up to 7'. However the under cabin deck is 24" wide and tapers to 20" and about 6" deep. That will hold a lot of rods. I will split it into two sides, one for each occupant. I figure, on a typical day it will be 2-3 fishing.
Port side and under bow deck is storage for gear, tackle, life jackets, anchor box etc.
Port aft will be the command center- switches for all lights, bilge pump, live-well pumps (plural), timers, Sonar unit, stereo, gauges, etc. Below the command center will be storage for first aid kit, spar parts, spare fuses, paper maps, etc.
Aft from port to starboard will be a 48 quart live-well (Coleman Marine cooler), dual battery storage (outboard, and trolling motor), anchor box.
I also plan on a ladder attached to teh transom, starboard side, and will need a place to walk.
I also plan on installing USB outlets and 12v outlets around the boat. Bow and anchor light will have a combination USB/12v dual outlet to charge phones or run my GoPro camera and the 12v outlet for fillet knife, night fishing lights, flood light, tournament scale, or whatever else that needs power. The command center will have dual 12v outlets.
Stereo speakers will be mounted in the upper bow deck/gunwale area.
Each live-well will have a pump the is on a timer.
Plus I will be installing a set of BlueWater Pro Boat LED light kit.
The command center will be 100% custom made and all circuits will be automotive blade type fuses, and all switches will be LED lighted.
I want 3-4 seats in the cabin area. Not sure I can make that happen, all depends on how much additional bow space the live-well uses, and IF I can support a 4th seat over the below cabin deck storage rod locker. I suspect I will only get 3 seats in the cabin area.
This will remain a tiller boat.

 

[bonz_d]

Such as this?





This one has been started but that has been interrupted by a Sea Nymph Pike Attacker.

 

[Hanr3]

Pretty close. Nice job.

My bow deck will be the same height as the port/starboard lockers, and the same height as the rear deck. You can walk all the way around the outside edge of the boat without a step up or down.

Couple of progress pictures.
I have the cabin deck and below cabin deck carpeted and mounted. Working on the bow deck and wrap around deck. At this point all of the plumbing has been completed, except the live-well/bait-well drain.

 

[Hanr3]

Time to get some of the wiring, plumbing, and loose foam in place.
Misspoke before, all the plumbing wasn't done in the previous post.

All of the loose foam that came out of the boat went back, plus I added about 3/4 of a 1" thick sheet of closed cell foam. I managed to box off areas behind the aft live-well and aft anchor compartment. In the back there is a splash well, under the splash well on both side where the deck area is has been closed off and filled with foam for flotation. I also added a bunch of flotation under the nose of the bow, in front of the bow storage compartment. Hard to explain, but imagine everywhere not in use is foam except a drain channel under the below deck storage area. This way any water that gets in the boat will still flow to the rear and get sucked out by the bilge pump.





All the foam installed and the aft section buttoned up. Still need hatches, but otherwise its good to go.

 

[Hanr3]

Time to work on the bow.
In the below picture you can see the under cabin deck rod storage locker. It is about 24" wide at the aft, and 20" wide at the bow. I completely carpeted it, even under the bow storage area.




Below is the plan. Live-well/Bait-well, then one big storage compartment with two hatches to access it. On the starboard side of the bow will be the front half of teh starboard rod locker, this will be separated from the storage compartment. Below is the frame for the deck, hatches and seat bases.



I am extending the original deck by 11" to get the live-well/bait-well and 3 seat bases to fit on the bow. I used the old bow deck as a template for the new bow deck.



Bow deck installed and the cabin seat bases installed. Ended up with 3 seats in the cabin area. So be it, that 4th just wasn't going to fit. The yellow on the bow deck is one of the hatches to access the under deck storage compartment. I reused two of the plastic deck hatches for the live-well/bait-well. Bait-well on the right.

 

[bonz_d]

Wow you're moving along pretty quickly. Very nice work.

Those couple of photos of my Classic 16 is from when I 1st brought it home. Right now it's sitting all covered up out in the driveway 1/2 torn apart after being interrupted by the Sean Nymph that I thought was going to be a quick turnaround.

 

[Hanr3]

Sorry for the delay. Boat is complete and I have fished out of it. Works great.

On to some pictures.

Removed the jack plate, bolted the motor to the transom. Runs ten time better, top speed now is 25-26mph fully loaded. also added a ladder. I fish early spring, like last Easter weekend. Air temps in the am was 34 degrees. Water temps 53-55 degrees. No way I am going to get back in that boat wearing Carhart bids and coat full of water. The ladder will make it safer, plus has the added benefit and can be used int eh summer to go swimming.

 

[Hanr3]

I ordered and added LED lights. Blue Light Pro LED kit.

First picture is the under cabin deck rod locker. I used white lights for working lights, red lights for safety, green for the live-wells, and white for the storage lockers.

 

[Hanr3]

First video is a walk around after she was completed, and after the first test run.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-GJi7Pb-Ik


Next video is a short collection of the whole process. From what I brought home, stripped, modified, rebuilt, test run with my dogs, and finishing the video with a few Crappie the wife and I caught out of her.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcd4v25SHpI

 

[Fire1386]

Very nice re-do.... Looks like the dogs were enjoying the ride along also.

 

[MTBF]

Awesome pictures and video, turned into a amazing boat nice work!

 

[Hanr3]

Thanks!
It's been a great boat so far. Really looking forward to this season.

 

[Hanr3]

Quick update.
I had to move the group 31 trolling motor battery from under the bow to the stern, next to the starting battery. It was creating some balance issues. The bow wasn't getting above level at WOT and was plowing through bigger waves. When sitting dead in the water the bow was nose heavy, even with me in the captains chair. Since I moved it, the bow sits slightly above level on plane and she sits level in the water.

Second issue is the lack of electric/hydraulic tilt and trim on the motor. Couple weeks ago I broke the skeg off at the ramp and ground the tips off all three blades. Concrete ramp. Just ordered a new prop. Michigan Wheel 12.25" x 15 pitch. Current prop is a 12.5" x 13 pitch and runs the Revolutions Per Minute (RPM) about 5200-5400 during Wide Open Throttle (WOT). The new prop should drop my RPMs to about 5000, more inline with factory specs. Factory specs call for 4500-5500 RPMs, and they recommend staying around 5000 RPM's for optimum fuel efficiency. Current prop is on the high end. New prop should drop be down closer to 5000 RPMs and increase my top speed. It may take a little longer to get on plane, something I can live with. Not real concerned about fuel efficiency, this thing sips gas as it is. Hoping to get a little more top speed.

Second problem I will deal with this winter. Adding an electric/hydraulic tilt/trim kit. More than likely CMC tilt/trim kit. $700. The Evinrude factory 40hp comes with a tilt assist. Basically a hydraulic cylinder to lighten the load for manual tilt. No adjustment for trim on the water. Boat and motor must be balanced with each other, hence the problem with the battery on the bow. I need a good snow plowing season this year. I also want to buy a new sonar unit and trolling motor. I'll see if I can get pictures of the damage.

 

[Hanr3]

Another season and a few more updates.

I managed to buy a used Humminbird 898SI and Terrova 24volt 80pound trust trolling motor last winter, both used. I currently run a Humminbird 899HDSI unit. I mounted the 898 on the bow and Ethernet linked the 899 to the 898. Since the Terrova was 24volt I had to add another group 31 battery. The Terrova also has IPilot, not Link. However it does have spot lock. I removed my stern anchor and put the main battery in the anchor locker. Then put the second group 31 in the battery compartment. Now there are 2 group 31's in the battery compartment and the group 24 in the anchor compartment, all in the back of the boat. I was worried about the extra weight throwing the balance off, all for naught. The boat still maintains a great balance.

Remember my issue with bouncing the skeg and prop off the ramp, well that manifested itself into a bent shift rod and the motor would pop out of gear under heavy load and top speed. First time it happened was in Canada during my annual week long fishing trip. Since I had to rebuild the lower unit, I decided to replace all seals, and the impeller. Below video is me straightening the shift rod. I also had to replace the prop again, bounced the first new one off the ramp and chewed it up too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvG9_IUVgVE&t=24s

Replacing $120 props gets expensive fast. Time to address the hydraulic assist system that doesn't work. Buddy of mine has a 50hp Evinrude of the same vintage. However his has a lever lock system. I was going to buy the 50hp from him and swap motors. Well that was the plan, however he blew the motor up. So he gave me the lever lock system and hydraulic piston off the 50hp. Removing the top pin was an exercise in frustration. But I got her done. The lever lock is a lever that mounts to the side of the tiller handle and locks the motor in any tilled position. At the ramp, I drop the motor into the water and lock it. then once away from the ramp I drop the motor all the way down. Reverse on the way out. After one minor adjustment, she works great.

I also added some rod holders to the front. In the below picture you can see the Terrova, 898 and rod holders. Plus one of my Shih Tzu's on fish watch.


I'll leave you with a few fish pictures and a video from Canada.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nmeu2ACoKtc



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZEu3FyKYt0

I love the boat configuration and use it as a multi-species fishing machine.