You know, I reread this from #1 and cannot see what caused the fussing. Scratching my head.
Well, at least I learned something.
Well, at least I learned something.
TinBoats.net
The original aluminum boat site!
25hp Johnson trouble
- Thread starter user 33519
- Start date
Help Support TinBoats.net:
I know how to read a multimeter too.. but I learned long ago not to dispute Pappy! Although he may come off as a cranky old man on the forums, it's no denying he knows what he's talking about.
i don't know where this thread went off the rails, nothing i can see is offensive.
i don't know where this thread went off the rails, nothing i can see is offensive.
- Joined
- May 15, 2010
- Messages
- 3,669
- Reaction score
- 326
- Location
- Central Florida
- LOCATION
- Lake County, Central Florida
Guys.....I get "cranky" when I take the time to think about and answer a question based upon the information I have received and then read that the OP will either ignore the information or only do part of what is asked. Or......when someone else comes in behind the answer and suggests the OP do something entirely different because he has a buddy that had one that did something kinda similar. You get the idea.
Again, although I am in no way shape or form in charge of this section of the forum I would love to see a high quality of answers being given instead of guesses. When an OP starts out with " I have an engine that does XXXXX, what should I do?" We need to find out the brand and model of the engine and as much information about exactly what the issue is and when it happens as well as what was just done to it. Sometimes valuable clues or information becomes available just with this basic information!
Let me know your thoughts on this as most who have commented are those I know and have been contributing for quite a while. Thanks!
"Grumpy"
Again, although I am in no way shape or form in charge of this section of the forum I would love to see a high quality of answers being given instead of guesses. When an OP starts out with " I have an engine that does XXXXX, what should I do?" We need to find out the brand and model of the engine and as much information about exactly what the issue is and when it happens as well as what was just done to it. Sometimes valuable clues or information becomes available just with this basic information!
Let me know your thoughts on this as most who have commented are those I know and have been contributing for quite a while. Thanks!
"Grumpy"
Weldorthemagnificent
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2017
- Messages
- 1,232
- Reaction score
- 56
I've taken both direct and indirect advice from Pappy and I am appreciative of the knowledge shared.
thill
Well-known member
Jimmy,
The simple answer is, OH YEAH, power packs go bad all the time! Often, loose or corroded wire connectors or battery cables are the start of the problem. The arc or resistance damage the rectifier/voltage regulator and the CDI.
I strongly recommend that you scrape and wire brush your connectors until they are shiny metal and re-test, if you haven't already. Sometimes a film forms on connectors that is pretty transparent, but it still interferes with conductivity.
Like Pappy, I work on a lot of them, and what he told you is exactly the proper sequence. If you already verified that the black/yellow wire is not broken, but it still doesn't shut the motor off, your CDI may be bad. That is likely your problem, but there are other possibilities.
You can melt the potting and chase it down inside if you are that adventurous, but it's easier to just order a power pack off Amazon, swap them out and go use the boat.
Here is the parts diagram for your motor:
https://www.boats.net/catalog/johnson/outboard/25hp/j25elcne-1982/magneto
Part 37 is the CDI power pack. This is the OEM version. On those little motors, I have used other brands with great success. Here is the CDI version at about half price: https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Electronics-113-2453-Evinrude-1977-1984/dp/B012RQHB10
Don't be too sensitive on online forums. Text often doesn't come across as intended.
I hope you get your motor fixed and enjoy your summer.
The simple answer is, OH YEAH, power packs go bad all the time! Often, loose or corroded wire connectors or battery cables are the start of the problem. The arc or resistance damage the rectifier/voltage regulator and the CDI.
I strongly recommend that you scrape and wire brush your connectors until they are shiny metal and re-test, if you haven't already. Sometimes a film forms on connectors that is pretty transparent, but it still interferes with conductivity.
Like Pappy, I work on a lot of them, and what he told you is exactly the proper sequence. If you already verified that the black/yellow wire is not broken, but it still doesn't shut the motor off, your CDI may be bad. That is likely your problem, but there are other possibilities.
You can melt the potting and chase it down inside if you are that adventurous, but it's easier to just order a power pack off Amazon, swap them out and go use the boat.
Here is the parts diagram for your motor:
https://www.boats.net/catalog/johnson/outboard/25hp/j25elcne-1982/magneto
Part 37 is the CDI power pack. This is the OEM version. On those little motors, I have used other brands with great success. Here is the CDI version at about half price: https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Electronics-113-2453-Evinrude-1977-1984/dp/B012RQHB10
Don't be too sensitive on online forums. Text often doesn't come across as intended.
I hope you get your motor fixed and enjoy your summer.
