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<blockquote data-quote="thill" data-source="post: 512038" data-attributes="member: 4972">If you are using 1/4&quot; rivets, you want the shaft length to be the material thickness, plus 1/4&quot;Most Pop-type rivets CANNOT be cut and peened.&nbsp; You may end up cutting the expansion plug, and then be left with a thin, hollow tube with no strength.&nbsp;&nbsp; If they are done right, leave them be, otherwise I&#039;d strongly recommend you switch to solid rivets.&nbsp; You may be able to just peen them with an air hammer to lower the profile without cutting, but I can&#039;t recommend that.An air hammer is fast, and if you have the right tip, it works great, but it&#039;s not necessarily any better than hand-peening.&nbsp; If I only had a dozen to do, I would hand-peen, as I would know exactly how tight I made them.If doing a lot of rivets, using an air hammer and the proper anvil is the way to go.&nbsp; Will save a bunch of time, and you will get the feel for it, after a little practice.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="thill, post: 512038, member: 4972"] If you are using 1/4" rivets, you want the shaft length to be the material thickness, plus 1/4" Most Pop-type rivets CANNOT be cut and peened. You may end up cutting the expansion plug, and then be left with a thin, hollow tube with no strength. If they are done right, leave them be, otherwise I'd strongly recommend you switch to solid rivets. You may be able to just peen them with an air hammer to lower the profile without cutting, but I can't recommend that. An air hammer is fast, and if you have the right tip, it works great, but it's not necessarily any better than hand-peening. If I only had a dozen to do, I would hand-peen, as I would know exactly how tight I made them. If doing a lot of rivets, using an air hammer and the proper anvil is the way to go. Will save a bunch of time, and you will get the feel for it, after a little practice. [/QUOTE]

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