Black RTV to patch plastic carb parts?

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bantou

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2024
Messages
128
Reaction score
117
LOCATION
Central Texas
Any reason I couldn’t use black rtv to seal this crack on my nozzle well? It doesn’t appear to run very deep and the brass tube runs all the way through. Best I can tell, it’s just for support and the tube is still very solid. My big concern is that it sits down in the fuel bowl and will be constantly exposed.

They are considered an obsolete part now and difficult as all get out to find without paying an insane amount.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8684.jpeg
    IMG_8684.jpeg
    49 KB
I’d probably clean well w/ alcohol & would use this sealant MADE for fuel systems.

And could a small zip-tie (or SS wire, twisted tight) go all the way around the body/housing shown (between thumb & finger) to give added support, to at least stop that ‘wall’ where cracked from breaking out??
IMG_2681.jpeg
 
I’d probably clean well w/ alcohol & would use this sealant MADE for fuel systems.

And could a small zip-tie (or SS wire, twisted tight) go all the way around the body/housing shown (between thumb & finger) to give added support, to at least stop that ‘wall’ where cracked from breaking out??
View attachment 122855
I was planning on using permatex black. I’ve had mixed luck with loctite stuff.

Using the SS wire is a good idea though. Just have to be careful that I don’t twist it TOO tight. I suspect that the plastic is brittle given the crack and how it feels in hand.
 
Any reason I couldn’t use black rtv to seal this crack on my nozzle well? It doesn’t appear to run very deep and the brass tube runs all the way through. Best I can tell, it’s just for support and the tube is still very solid. My big concern is that it sits down in the fuel bowl and will be constantly exposed.

They are considered an obsolete part now and difficult as all get out to find without paying an insane amount.
Could a new part be 3D printed?
 
I have used a plastic welder with success. You cut a piece of the stainless reinforcement screen to the right shape and size and use the heat to imbed it into the plastic, and then add more plastic as needed.

The trick is using the RIGHT type of plastic to do the repair. The wrong stuff won't stick or worse. The right stuff will become one with the part, and then you can use a Dremel tool to hone it to perfection. Worth doing for something really expensive or hard to find.
 
Never had any sucess with silicone based products...do not use silicone for anything.

I've seen a water pump installed without a gasket, just silicone. This was on a 2600 hp diesel.

It worked, although I would always recommend a gasket.

I coat some gaskets with a thin layer of silicone before installation, especially if the gasket surface isn't perfect. Makes removal and cleaning a lot easier. Pretty much just Super Blue or Ultra Copper.

Just be careful and use as little as possible. People have ruined engines with silicone (gobs of it blocking oil/water passages).
 
I've seen a water pump installed without a gasket, just silicone. This was on a 2600 hp diesel.

It worked, although I would always recommend a gasket.

I coat some gaskets with a thin layer of silicone before installation, especially if the gasket surface isn't perfect. Makes removal and cleaning a lot easier. Pretty much just Super Blue or Ultra Copper.

Just be careful and use as little as possible. People have ruined engines with silicone (gobs of it blocking oil/water passages).
As a gasket, silicone might work, but as a self supporting repair material, never had it last. Living in a popular boating and fishing area, no reputable mechanic uses silicone for anything, far to many better products on the market. Once silicone is applied, nothing else will stick to that area has been my experience.
 
But can it be made to work?
Hard to tell from a picture. I’ll have to figure out which motor it goes to before I know for sure.

Edit: It looks like the 7819s were used from 93 on in the 15hp and under motors. I wonder if they just made a minor change and updated the part number... I didn't not expect this project to turn in to a research project as well.
 
Last edited:
Good Luck.

FWIW, I haven't found anything that works submerged in fuel, long term (I was modifying a carburetor).

JB Weld was the most successful.

This product wasn't available at the time. Give it a look.

https://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-tankweld
From what I’ve been able to find, tank weld does not bond well to plastic. Plastweld seems to do ok on exterior repairs but I haven’t been able to find anyone that used it for an internal repair.
 

Latest posts

Top