Day 1 of my New modified V project

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Chase55tx

Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2015
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
OK this is the first day of my first boat restoration project. I have many questions and welcome any suggestions. What I have is a 14' modified V hull. Wanting to add front casting deck, trolling motor, batteries, etc. I also have a 15hp Johnson that works great.

I filled the boat with water to check for leaks and it had a few very small ones along some rivets and one larger one on the bottom center of the boat. I circled them with a grease pencil so I will know where the leaks are after it dries. Bottom right image shows one of the leaks. What do you suggest that I do to repair this.

Feel free to message me.

Chase
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1113.JPG
    IMG_1113.JPG
    60.7 KB
:WELCOME:

I hope you find this site as interesting and helpful as so many of us do.

You are asking about leaks at rivets. Do you have a rivet gun and a piece of steel? You can "tighten" the rivets like that. It usually takes 2 people; one on the gun and one on the other side of the boat holding the steel against the rivet.

There is a thread on here about using a drill in lieu of a rivet gun. I've never done that, as I have a buck rivet gun, but it worked for that guy.

Otherwise, drill out the old rivets and put new ones in.

Post pics of your project along the way! We all like to see projects in the making!

Good Luck,
Keith
Texas
 
Chase55tx said:
OK this is the first day of my first boat restoration project. I have many questions and welcome any suggestions. What I have is a 14' modified V hull. Wanting to add front casting deck, trolling motor, batteries, etc. I also have a 15hp Johnson that works great.

I filled the boat with water to check for leaks and it had a few very small ones along some rivets and one larger one on the bottom center of the boat. I circled them with a grease pencil so I will know where the leaks are after it dries. Bottom right image shows one of the leaks. What do you suggest that I do to repair this.

Feel free to message me.

Chase


Day 2.

I decided to paint the boat rather then giving it a mirror polish. I needed to get off the oxidation and grime off the boat before I can paint it so I used an old paint stripper and gave it shot to see if it work and yes it did. However, I needed to get a drill with higher RPMS to make it more effective. After about three hours the bottom hull was was done.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1244.JPG
    IMG_1244.JPG
    58.6 KB
Chase55tx said:
Chase55tx said:
OK this is the first day of my first boat restoration project. I have many questions and welcome any suggestions. What I have is a 14' modified V hull. Wanting to add front casting deck, trolling motor, batteries, etc. I also have a 15hp Johnson that works great.

I filled the boat with water to check for leaks and it had a few very small ones along some rivets and one larger one on the bottom center of the boat. I circled them with a grease pencil so I will know where the leaks are after it dries. Bottom right image shows one of the leaks. What do you suggest that I do to repair this.

Feel free to message me.

Chase


Day 2.

I decided to paint the boat rather then giving it a mirror polish. I needed to get off the oxidation and grime off the boat before I can paint it so I used an old paint stripper and gave it shot to see if it work and yes it did. However, I needed to get a drill with higher RPMS to make it more effective. After about three hours the bottom hull was was done.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1247.JPG
    IMG_1247.JPG
    54.8 KB
  • IMG_1246.JPG
    IMG_1246.JPG
    47.4 KB
Sears has a drill I use for buffing that is the highest speed I could find and there cheap to. 1/2 drive champion brand thinking it was around 35 to 40 dollars.

Good start on the boat.
 
OK my boat project is moving along. She has been painted and tagged. I also have purchased a new trolling motor and depth finder. Ready to start the decking. 3/4 plywood or 1/2 plywood? Also, 2x2's or 2x4's or a mix.
 

Attachments

  • image1.JPG
    image1.JPG
    67.3 KB
=D> =D> =D> Lookin' good! I like the colors you chose!

I'm not sure about the decking part, so I'll leave that to someone else. I do know, never use treated lumber as it will cause the aluminum to corrode.

Proud for you! :USA1:

M
Tyler, Texas
 
Started the decking today, sorry no pics. I purchased 2x4's as well as some 2x2's. 16 - 3" 1/4 galvanized bolts washers and nuts and 16 deck joint braces, just wait you'll see. Things went well. Here in Texas in went from April to August in one day so not much done today.
 
1/2 inch ply properly sealed is plenty strong, especially if you go with an A/C grade or better. Marine Ply is always worth every penny - the glue is stronger - but its pricey and not universally available. Just make sure all the edges are sealed really well.

Nice color selection IMHO.
 
Chase55tx said:
Started the decking today, sorry no pics. I purchased 2x4's as well as some 2x2's. 16 - 3" 1/4 galvanized bolts washers and nuts and 16 deck joint braces, just wait you'll see. Things went well. Here in Texas in went from April to August in one day so not much done today.

:LOL2: That's right.....April to August on Sunday, then back to February and 40's on Tuesday. Rain, rain, rain......Can't do much in this crazy weather. :popcorn:

Looking forward to seeing pics of your deck, when you can. :wink:
 
kcsphil said:
1/2 inch ply properly sealed is plenty strong, especially if you go with an A/C grade or better. Marine Ply is always worth every penny - the glue is stronger - but its pricey and not universally available. Just make sure all the edges are sealed really well.

Nice color selection IMHO.


I would suggest you avoid the marine plywood as the chemicals can react negatively with the aluminum (if not properly sealed). Regular plywood sealed (2-3X) with Resin will last you a lifetime. :)

Nice boat!

CMOS
 
Things are getting closer every day. Its framed out and the plywood and supports have been weather sealed. I used Thompson weather seal. I hope that is good enough.

Cutting out forms today using a cardboard jig. Added extra Buoyancy and Carpet next. Any suggestions are always welcom welcome.
 

Attachments

  • FullSizeRender[1].jpg
    FullSizeRender[1].jpg
    42.3 KB
  • IMG_1854.JPG
    IMG_1854.JPG
    50.2 KB
  • IMG_1852.JPG
    IMG_1852.JPG
    46.1 KB
Well how about that! You've been steady working on her. Looks good! =D> =D> =D>

I'm not sure about the Thompson's in a boat. :?:
I know we used it on our dock for several years in a row and finally went to a product called Duck's Back. But, that's on a dock with womanized wood. I bet CMOS can answer that. He use to restore boats for a living.

Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing the pics! 8)
 
Took her out for a test run today. My 1986 Johnson ran great until I hit the higher RPM's and it felt like the prop lost thrust and the RPMS went way up. The pin is just fine on the propeller. Any suggestions.
 

Attachments

  • 11262375_10205573133000357_5035440923029988524_o.jpg
    11262375_10205573133000357_5035440923029988524_o.jpg
    47.8 KB

Latest posts

Top