Electronics Without Electric Start

[drsouce411]

Hey everyone, sorry in advance if this is a topic that's been beaten to death, but I'm currently in the market for a new outboard. Ideally I would like an electric start 20hp 4 stroke to replace the electric start 15hp 2 stroke I'm currently running. I can get a new Tohatsu with ES for about $2600 plus Maine 5.5% sales tax.... OR.... I can get the year old Suzuki 20hp EFI 4 stroke manual start that came up for sale near me for $2400 and no sales tax (maybe room to negotiate too!).

I've heard the EFI on the Suzuki's is awesome. Manually starting a 20hp is no problem for me (I had a 20hp yamaha manual start that was a breeze.) I love the fact that it's the lightest four stroke in it's class (only 20lbs heavier than my current 15hp!) The motor is really exactly what I'm looking for. Even has Suzuki's warranty for another 5 years.

My questions is this:

Without electronic start (and charging abilities that come with) I will be forced to run my GPS/Fishfinder and Nav lights off a battery. Is this a PITA to do? Maintaining it on a trickle charger after every trip after heavy usage (especially if I run a trolling motor). Or is it really not that bad to have to plug in the boat when I get home after each outing.

Also, what type of battery will be best to run a GPS/FF and maybe nav lights, or GPS/FF and trolling motor for say 6 hours an outing? The standard deep cycle I have now for cranking my 15hp or can I possibly get away with something lighter?

Sorry for all the questions. Just trying to get feedback from those in the same boat as me (pun intended) before I go and possibly buy this motor this weekend.

Thanks!

 

[TNtroller]

A U1 size or riding lawn mower battery should power the FF/GPS/lights for the 4-6 hrs you mention w/o issue unless it's one of the latest & greatest units which would reduce the run time. This size would NOT run a TM. You would need to charge this battery up after each trip but a decent smart charger from wally world would accomplish this that have the quick connect connectors in the box, or just use post clamps, which ever is easiest for you.

For the easiest connections and charging duties for both the TM & FF batteries, just install a 2 bank charger on the boat, they are always attached to the batteries, and just plug it in when you get home from the water. One 2 bank charger installed will be in the ball park of the two chargers you will need/want for the two separate batteries (cost wise) but will make up for any extra $$ due to the convenience factor.

I would not run the FF & TM off the same battery as the possibility of interference on the FF from the TM is pretty good. You could get lucky and not have any interference but I would not count on it.

 

[reelrusty]

Hey drsource Your questions address what I've been running for years and years. 16' v hull with 20hp Suzuki and 14' Alumacraft jon with 15 hp Mariner. Minnkota Powerdrive V-2 with I-pilot on the bow of both. You'll want to run two batteries for the interference reasons already mentioned. I run 27 series on the 16 ft and 24 series on my jon. Two batteries each. I usually am by myself so wt not that critical for me though it would be nice to loose one of the batteries in the jon. Both have Pro-Mariner 2 bank chargers (older ones so read that as HEAVY). I can get two days of Walleye trolling out of the series 27 but if it has been windy I usually have to switch the trolling motor to the battery I've been using for my electronics and vice versa. Always enough juice left to finish out the day. On the jon switching out batteries isn't as easy so if I'm out for a couple days I will fire up the generator and charge the 24 series a few hours when I'm in for the night. Best of luck and tight lines!

 

[cajunrebel]

Can you use the savings and add the parts to your motor to charge a battery. I know on my dad's 25 hp Johnson (98) it's easy to convert between manual and electric start and I certainly believe that you can make a manual start motor charge a battery.

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