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Extruded Aluminum versus 2x2 pine structure
- Thread starter JonathanP
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for rigidity and long life - aluminum wins all the votes.
also, it is easier (IMO) to fasten it all together with brackets
and pop rivets.
tools are simple: chop saw and a pop rivet gun.
short piece of 1.5x1.5" angle and a drill to make the brackets.
.
for rigidity and long life - aluminum wins all the votes.
also, it is easier (IMO) to fasten it all together with brackets
and pop rivets.
tools are simple: chop saw and a pop rivet gun.
short piece of 1.5x1.5" angle and a drill to make the brackets.
.
Thank you for your reply and the greetings!
This is the type of aluminum I have access to, I'm just concerned that it may be over kill, or to heavy (48" is 5.4lbs).
My boat is a 15' Alum, flat from stern until about 8' than comes to a "V" shape (hybrid?).
This is the type of aluminum I have access to, I'm just concerned that it may be over kill, or to heavy (48" is 5.4lbs).
My boat is a 15' Alum, flat from stern until about 8' than comes to a "V" shape (hybrid?).
Attachments
that profile will give you fits trying to get it fitted to something else.......
if you look closely, there is nowhere for a rivet to hold - you would have to use
self tapping or self drilling screws. The general consensus is to use regular square tubing.
- your call -
if you look closely, there is nowhere for a rivet to hold - you would have to use
self tapping or self drilling screws. The general consensus is to use regular square tubing.
- your call -
JigglyJohnson
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Someone used this recently and made an interesting build where the extruded aluminum rails were used to slide rod holders. I'd use it if you have a free or next to free source
Edit: here's a link to the build I'm talking about. Very recent. Probably good to get the builders inputs while their fresh.
https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=41499&sid=572b17a8954d60ef24f3b1a51b4fe71a&start=0
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Edit: here's a link to the build I'm talking about. Very recent. Probably good to get the builders inputs while their fresh.
https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=41499&sid=572b17a8954d60ef24f3b1a51b4fe71a&start=0
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I used 1.5" square tube for main framing components and then 1.75x1x.125 channel to end cap the tubes and provide a spot to sink rivets. The tube shape was used for flooring and long spanning deck/lid supports. I also used angle or the channel in some spots with shorter spans or less weight on them.
I recently watched a video on YouTube where a guy was trying to explain how dimensional lumber framing was lighter than aluminum. The problem was he used his aluminum pieces in the weak direction and need to add stiffeners. To compound matters, his wood frame was "ported" with a paddle bit to reduce the weight. It was a terribly executed video. Point I am trying to make here is when used appropriately aluminum will win in every category for framing a boat except possibly workability depending on the tools you have available. If you have a compressor and a chop saw, get yourself a pneumatic rivet gun. I bought one on Amazon before starting my project. A manual rivet gun is 25 bucks for one that'll last, I picked up my air rivet gun for 45 bucks. Watching one video of manual vs air rivet guns, the first rivet with the air gun more than makes up the 20 dollar price difference. I sank about 200 3/16" aluminum rivets in my project. Get the pnuematic gun.
The aluminum profile you have shown above is overkill on a boat. It does provide some unique fastening opportunities but you'll likely find more challenges as Johnny mentioned. Simple tube, angle, and channel will get it done easily. I will go thru and provide some numbers for different aluminum shapes tomorrow for strength in various directions as well as weight. Once I am done with my boat project I plan to put together a full 3D diagram of the framing I used and where with everything labeled. It was a hell of a fun build. Best part is next weekend a buddy is bringing an identical hull that is bone stock and we are gonna transform his as well.
I recently watched a video on YouTube where a guy was trying to explain how dimensional lumber framing was lighter than aluminum. The problem was he used his aluminum pieces in the weak direction and need to add stiffeners. To compound matters, his wood frame was "ported" with a paddle bit to reduce the weight. It was a terribly executed video. Point I am trying to make here is when used appropriately aluminum will win in every category for framing a boat except possibly workability depending on the tools you have available. If you have a compressor and a chop saw, get yourself a pneumatic rivet gun. I bought one on Amazon before starting my project. A manual rivet gun is 25 bucks for one that'll last, I picked up my air rivet gun for 45 bucks. Watching one video of manual vs air rivet guns, the first rivet with the air gun more than makes up the 20 dollar price difference. I sank about 200 3/16" aluminum rivets in my project. Get the pnuematic gun.
The aluminum profile you have shown above is overkill on a boat. It does provide some unique fastening opportunities but you'll likely find more challenges as Johnny mentioned. Simple tube, angle, and channel will get it done easily. I will go thru and provide some numbers for different aluminum shapes tomorrow for strength in various directions as well as weight. Once I am done with my boat project I plan to put together a full 3D diagram of the framing I used and where with everything labeled. It was a hell of a fun build. Best part is next weekend a buddy is bringing an identical hull that is bone stock and we are gonna transform his as well.
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