Foam Replacement

[Still Afloat]

I’m not paranoid about it but having adequate floatation foam is good common sense.

I’ve been through enough dangerous situations in my life to know that sh@t happens when you least expect it.

 

[LDUBS]

This saturated foam issue comes up again and again. You would think this stuff should dry out with a little time, but that just doesn't seem to happen. The water must somehow get encapsulated and can't evaporate.

 

[Still Afloat]

It might dry out in a couple of decades but, I may not be around by then. I think it’s easier to get water in the foam than out. (Edit; It’s usually collecting water for a decade or more before it becomes an issue.)

Man this project is getting expensive. The 3/4” marine ply is about the same price as 1/8” 5052 aluminum. However, it looks like it’s an extra $400 more expensive than aluminum by the time you add epoxy, tools and deck paint.

Probably could have got a better deal on the marine ply if I lived on the west side of the state but, I don’t. Thank God.

Oh well. I’ve made my decision to take the wood route on this project and I’m sticking to it. Picked up the plywood today and it’ really nice. Much better than the crap that I bought three years ago.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

This saturated foam issue comes up again and again. You would think this stuff should dry out with a little time, but that just doesn't seem to happen. The water must somehow get encapsulated and can't evaporate.

When I redid the ‘67 StarCraft, the water logged foam I pulled out, never dried out. It was sheets of white styrofoam. My mistake was not replacing the dry pieces. A few years latter, that was water logged too. Boat was always pumped out after rain storms and when we were gone, pulled up on an angled trailer with drain plug pulled.

Speaking of drain plug, having the floatation has probably saved many boaters that forgot to put it back in.

 

[Still Afloat]

I bought more epoxy (WS 105 & 206) than needed. A gallon of resin was the same price as two quarts. Maybe a coat of epoxy on the pink or blue board will help it stay dry longer.

 

[airshot]

3/4" might be overkill, my flooring jobs have been 1/2" with no issues even with a 4' span.

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

Floatation is a leading USCG inspection failure and many boat recalls are for flotation.

I never used my life jacket, but I keep it in like new condition, wear it constantly.

Could go on for hours about safety equipment.

 

[vtflatlander]

I have an ARkansas traveler mid 60's no deck. It had 3 air chambers attached under the seats. Many years ago someone took out the front seat and chamber and cut a hole in the middle seat chamber to try and make a fish well. not a good idea. I am finally reserecting the boat since It has sentimental value to me. I am replacing all the wood seats including the front missing one. What I did was make a new chamber for under the front seat and I am filling all three chambers with blocks of used dock foam. Price was right too. Free from Craigs list. I know this is different than a deck application but this foam can be cut or sliced and put under the deck. Just my thoughts. Good Luck

 

[davidj65]

thought I'd throw this out there on the foam thread: if you don't want to spring for a foam knife, heating up a 6" utility knife blade(dealt makes a nice one) with a heat gun works great. obviously a lot slower, but definitely effective and accurate.

 

[Still Afloat]

Well the new deck is coming along. Pieces are cut out, holes drilled and countersinked plus a couple coats of west systems 105/206 epoxy. Will finish with Behr one part epoxy concrete paint and aluminum oxide grit.

 

[Still Afloat]

Just to update on this project. I bought two sheets of 4x10 fir marine plywood at $645. Cut to the required sizes, drilled and counter sunk holes then finished with three coats of West systems epoxy on the bottom and sides. Coated the top with two coats of West Systems two coats of one part epoxy floor paint with aluminum oxide grit.


When everything was dry I moved the panels outside for a week so I could clean the shop. During that week of time the plywood delaminated, rendering it unusable. I finally got my money back this week but, I lost about $400 in epoxy, paint and tools. Not to mention the 40 hours or so of time.

The lighter color tan areas are just dust that accumulated on the panel.





Will restart the deck project late this month and I’m using aluminum this time around.

 

[David Atkins]

Today's lumber isn't what we used to buy years ago; I bought some lumber for a project and after transporting it to my shop and setting it up until I could get to use it, it began to warp, twist and become unusable as well.

Spoke with a friend in lumber trade and he told me the manufacturing process used today isn't what it should be, manufacturers move lumber too fast and don't control the moisture content like they used to do as well as the recommended drying time and processes to keep the wood stable after it is processed!

Go figure!

 

[Still Afloat]

The plywood supplier offered to replace it and I told them, “No thanks. I’m going with aluminum, I know aluminum won’t delaminate.”

 

[LDUBS]

The plywood supplier offered to replace it and I told them, “No thanks. I’m going with aluminum, I know aluminum won’t delaminate.”

That is just a shame. I've had pieces of exterior ply from the big box store sitting outside for a few years that hasn't done that. Did they give any reasons why that happened?

 

[thill]

That is very disappointing! Just curious... what was your sequence for applying the epoxy? Did you lay one coat after another and then set them outside after tack-free? Was it humid or wet outside while the epoxy was curing? Was there dew at night?

Personally, I am NOT impressed with the epoxy craze that is sold as being "the best money can buy". Personally, I think it's NOT.

1/2" plywood with a layer of 3/4 ounce glass matt top and bottom is very strong and almost bulletproof, and it costs less than epoxy. Pre-drill and seal all holes with resin and you have one tough flooring system that will last for decades.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I would not be a happy camper, either. Going with the premium marine plywood, epoxy, and the time and effort.

I’ve used gluvit with great results, and by most accounts the West System is suppose to be better. While the plywood was probably the fault, I’d be so pissed off, I’d through a cover over the boat and probably not touch it again until next year.

 

[LDUBS]

Yeah, that is frustrating as heck. That North River needs to get back in the water!

 

[gregorygregor]

I know I'm late to the picnic here- I got an old Gregor that had no foam or seats in it when I took possession. I cut 1/4" ply for the bottoms of the foam sections and waterproofed them. Installing them into the compartments created a barrier allowing all drain channels to function. Weather sealed around the boards for a good solid seal. I then lined the open areas with a roll of plastic sheeting leaving the tails long. I used a two part polyurethane liquid I found recommends n an aircraft site. These foams have different buoyancy ratings- aircraft want max volume for least weight. This is a CLOSED Cell foam- so without the plastic it should have lasted a long time- but I wanted the assurance. After drying- I sanded down the high areas, folded the plastic over and effectively sealed the block.

I know that this doesn't help in the scenario where it floats the flooring unless you go with a heavier foam.

How to speed up drying the old foam? I have worked on a few ocean going fiberglass boats- some are balsa core, some are foam, and some wood.
In times where drying a section was necessary- a vacuum pump can be your friend. most of the material/equipment needed is the same as laying up fiberglass. Basically it's vacuum bagging- cover area in plastic wrap and draw a vacuum- the low pressure causes water to boil and gets sucked out. This takes longer to dry blistered fiberglass and wood- but you can draw a vacuum and walk away- might check that out.

 

[gregorygregor]

Regarding plywood- what was the moisture content of the ply prior to applying the West System? The buckling looks more a result of expansion and contraction allowing moisture out. We compared marine grade ply to dense Finland or Baltic Birch. I took samples of the Mahogany ply/Marine/Baltic Birch and sank them in a 5gal bucket for over a month- only the Baltic came out with no issues.
Remember that all plywood is not equal- epoxy types available aren't cheap- but used in knife handles and gunstocks- see Rutland Plywood in Maine- for a application at work we purchased some of their product- Impressive.