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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
HOUSE's 14' Crestliner V-haul MOD (photos added)
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<blockquote data-quote="Brine" data-source="post: 181478" data-attributes="member: 1053"><p>I think you're right about where to apply the Gluvit. Just hit all the seams/rivets from the inside. No need to cover the whole bottom of the boat, and that price is what I'm use to seeing it for. Like Lon said, make sure to check out shipping costs.</p><p></p><p>I don't know that I have clarity on your rivet application ~ pics would help. There are two kinds of rivets (primarily). </p><p></p><p>Pop rivets and Solid Rivets. Pop rivets are installed with a manual operated hand tool ($20 at Home Depot), and are typically only used above the waterline (like for attaching aluminum angle/sheet etc...) I have seen them used below the waterline in conjunction with 3M 5200 Marine Sealant.</p><p></p><p>Solid Rivets are installed by hitting the head of the rivet with a hammer/pneumatic rivet gun/air chisel) while holding a heavy piece of steel/sledge hammer/bucking bar on the backside of the rivet that the tail of the rivet "smushes" against until tight. If done properly, solid rivets once set do not need any type of sealant, but in your case, it would provide a little bit more insurance that the rivet is water tight.</p><p></p><p>The dome shape of solid rivets have a matching shaped tool that is inserted into a pneumatic rivet gun and would be the way to go if you are trying to match existing rivets cosmetically, but a ball peen hammer should allow you to accomplish the same thing (just takes longer) without beating the rounded head of the rivet flat (as might happen with a regular hammer)</p><p></p><p>You can also use nuts/bolts with some 3M 5200 if you think the value of using the rivets isn't worth the hassle.</p><p></p><p>Post some pics of where you're trying to drill the holes if you get a chance.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Brine, post: 181478, member: 1053"] I think you're right about where to apply the Gluvit. Just hit all the seams/rivets from the inside. No need to cover the whole bottom of the boat, and that price is what I'm use to seeing it for. Like Lon said, make sure to check out shipping costs. I don't know that I have clarity on your rivet application ~ pics would help. There are two kinds of rivets (primarily). Pop rivets and Solid Rivets. Pop rivets are installed with a manual operated hand tool ($20 at Home Depot), and are typically only used above the waterline (like for attaching aluminum angle/sheet etc...) I have seen them used below the waterline in conjunction with 3M 5200 Marine Sealant. Solid Rivets are installed by hitting the head of the rivet with a hammer/pneumatic rivet gun/air chisel) while holding a heavy piece of steel/sledge hammer/bucking bar on the backside of the rivet that the tail of the rivet "smushes" against until tight. If done properly, solid rivets once set do not need any type of sealant, but in your case, it would provide a little bit more insurance that the rivet is water tight. The dome shape of solid rivets have a matching shaped tool that is inserted into a pneumatic rivet gun and would be the way to go if you are trying to match existing rivets cosmetically, but a ball peen hammer should allow you to accomplish the same thing (just takes longer) without beating the rounded head of the rivet flat (as might happen with a regular hammer) You can also use nuts/bolts with some 3M 5200 if you think the value of using the rivets isn't worth the hassle. Post some pics of where you're trying to drill the holes if you get a chance. [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
HOUSE's 14' Crestliner V-haul MOD (photos added)
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