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I knew things were going to good /1992 2 stroke 40hp Yamaha
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<blockquote data-quote="wmk0002" data-source="post: 505825" data-attributes="member: 13975"><p>Basically a dial indicator on a mount is secured somewhere where the indcator is in contact with the prop shaft. Zero the gauge and rotate the prop shaft while the lower unit itself is fixed/stationary and record the max and min changes on the gauge (aka runout). There is a spec for the allowable in the service manual which is prob pretty standard across manufacturers and HP ranges. Best way to lock it all down for a basic shade treee mechanic is probably to remove lower and put skeg in a vise and attach the magnetic indicator arm to the vise itself. All that said, personally i'd pressure test first and if good not worry about checking the prop shaft. </p><p></p><p>Again I cant recommend the mityvac tool enough. Great for outboard lowers and you can use it as intended to bleed brakes on your vehicles by yourself</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="wmk0002, post: 505825, member: 13975"] Basically a dial indicator on a mount is secured somewhere where the indcator is in contact with the prop shaft. Zero the gauge and rotate the prop shaft while the lower unit itself is fixed/stationary and record the max and min changes on the gauge (aka runout). There is a spec for the allowable in the service manual which is prob pretty standard across manufacturers and HP ranges. Best way to lock it all down for a basic shade treee mechanic is probably to remove lower and put skeg in a vise and attach the magnetic indicator arm to the vise itself. All that said, personally i'd pressure test first and if good not worry about checking the prop shaft. Again I cant recommend the mityvac tool enough. Great for outboard lowers and you can use it as intended to bleed brakes on your vehicles by yourself [/QUOTE]
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I knew things were going to good /1992 2 stroke 40hp Yamaha
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