Jon Boat Decking materials

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jccpm

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Hi everyone - thinking of redecking my 12' Jon Boat this winter. My boat currently has a plywood deck however the moisture has blown it up over the last few years. Any suggestions on the type of material I should use? I have two pedestal seats to install as well. Thanks in advance for your input ! JC
 
More info would be helpful.

Is the deck exposed to the weather all the time?

How long do you want it to last? How much do you wan to spend?

1/2 ext ply is cheap - if you seal it well & keep rain off, it should last many years.
 
Thanks CedarRiverScooter. Unfortunately I have to cover the boat for the winter so it is exposed to some extent. I would like it to last as long as possible and cost is not an issue. Just don't want to keep having to replace the deck every couple of years. Wasn't sure if there was a lightweight composite material I could use. Thanks for your quick response.
 
Lightweight composites tend to require being backed by foam to support them. I've used FRP, others have suggested products called Nidacore and Alupoly.

I concluded aluminum is the best balance for relatively simple construction, long-term durability and weight, so it's what I'm using on my current build.
 
Even aluminum will require foam for support if you go too thin, I would try to steer away from installing foam under the floor but, that seems to be the method of choice for some, if you go that route you can cheapen up on the aluminum some.
 
If you're putting foam under the floor line the cavity with painter's plastic first, pour the foam, then wrap the plastic over the top & put a board atop that to hold it in place all around the cavity. Weigh the board down so the foam expands to fill the cavity. Doing it this way the foam will have the plastic as a vapor barrier, so rainwater etc. can still percolate around it without having an opportunity to saturate it.
 
1/8” aluminum is great to span 14-16” with no sagging or oil canning popping sounds. It weighs about the same as 3/4” plywood. I used it on my cockpit floor in my boat. Cost double what the wood does. But it’s forever. No worries of wet weather. If cost isn’t an issue, this is the best over all.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=45457

My past boat made it 20 years like this. 1/2" marine plywood, old-timers for primer (two weeks to dry), and three coats oil base Rustoleum to finish. I have some 3" wide no-skid step tape on the way for added traction.
 
Just another option, I'm considering 1/8" or 1/4" PVC sheeting over an aluminum angle frame then carpeting over that.

PVC sheeting is around $4/sqft or $8/sqft respectively just for reference
Workable like wood
Chemically bonds with PVC cement unlike HDPE
Weather resistant, non-conductive, non-corrosive

My plan is dependent on me figuring out the framing spans it can tolerate so I can get decent stowage spaces. I could be dramatically under estimating it's strength. :?
 
Eanton - If you are in northern climate, PVC may work out.

I wouldn't use it in southern states, it gets very soft in hot sun.
 
CedarRiverScooter said:
Eanton - If you are in northern climate, PVC may work out.

I wouldn't use it in southern states, it gets very soft in hot sun.

Great insight, thanks. The interweb says the working limit temps on 1/4" sheet are:

140 F for PVC ($8/sqft)
180 F for HDPE ($6/sqft)
210 F for CPVC ($20/sqft)

So this is why HDPE is the preferred plastic material for marine application?
 
I used 1/8" aluminum in a rebuild a while back. Removed the wood from the floor,added some more support then the aluminum. It's posted here back in June " 1998 Tracker Transformation/ rebuild. I got the metal at a local scrap yard,the sheets were about 4 x 5 and cost me about the same if I had to buy new marine plywood.
 
5/8" plywood soaked in Thompson's Wood Preserver is tough to beat. Relatively inexpensive, rigid, so no need for a lot of support, and only a little heavier than 1/2" ply, which is pretty light, considering.

-TH
 

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