Lifting boat off trailer to replace bunks

[muskyhunter1978]

Hey guys. Not sure if this is the correct place for this or if it should go in the trailer forum so my apologies.

Since my boat resto is in a good place, I'm turning my attention over the winter to giving the trailer some tlc. Its in good shape overall, just needs a bit of clean up, replace some old rusted out brackets, etc.

I am going to replace all bunk brackets, as well as bunk boards. I'm trying to figure out a way to lift the boat up off the bunks, one side at a time, to replace the hardware and the bunks. Anyone have any tips and tricks for this? I have access to all kinds of jacks, engine hoist, etc. I really only need to left the boat an inch or so to perform the work. I've read where guys have lowered the tongue jack all the way, blocked the back of the boat, then raised the tongue, but I'm unsure if this will work to get the front of the boat high enough to enable me to remove the bunks, etc. I'd like to do this at home in the garage over the winter rather than waiting for spring and dunking the boat while I work on it in the parking lot (not fun if you forget something!).

Suggestions appreciated!

 

[DaleH]

Remove OB and anything in the boat of weight

Lower tongue,, block up stern, tie off stern to something immediately behind it, like a tree, etc.

Raise up trailer jack and pull trailer out from under the hull

When putting back on, with a friend (although I do them all by myself), I attach the trailer winch to the bow eye

Crank the strap tight with the trailer positioned immediately in front of the hull where it needs to align

Light UP on the end of the trailer while cranking the strap

This starts to pull the hull up onto the bunks, while the bunks may be at a 45-degree angle to the horizontal

After a bit, you won't even need to hold the trailer, the winch end will be suspended off the ground due to the tension on the strap

Sometimes rocking the trailer winch end up & down while cranking on the strap makes it slide on better, as do viny gutter 'covers' on your bunks

Then continue cranking it all the way back onto the trailer, have done this to tin hulls to 18' all by myself. No biggie ... just be sure to UNtie it from the tree you 1st tied it to to get it off the trailer, LOL!

 

[muskyhunter1978]

Remove OB and anything in the boat of weight

Lower tongue,, block up stern, tie off stern to something immediately behind it, like a tree, etc.

Raise up trailer jack and pull trailer out from under the hull

When putting back on, with a friend (although I do them all by myself), I attach the trailer winch to the bow eye

Crank the strap tight with the trailer positioned immediately in front of the hull where it needs to align

Light UP on the end of the trailer while cranking the strap

This starts to pull the hull up onto the bunks, while the bunks may be at a 45-degree angle to the horizontal

After a bit, you won't even need to hold the trailer, the winch end will be suspended off the ground due to the tension on the strap

Sometimes rocking the trailer winch end up & down while cranking on the strap makes it slide on better, as do viny gutter 'covers' on your bunks

Then continue cranking it all the way back onto the trailer, have done this to tin hulls to 18' all by myself. No biggie ... just be sure to UNtie it from the tree you 1st tied it to to get it off the trailer, LOL!

I'm hoping to do it without removing the outboard. I just redid the transom and remounted the motor last year. lol. This is a 2000 Starcraft Superfisher. She's a good size boat with a 125 outboard on it. Plus a kicker. lol

 

[DaleH]

I'm hoping to do it without removing the outboard. I just redid the transom and remounted the motor last year. lol. This is a 2000 Starcraft Superfisher. She's a good size boat with a 125 outboard on it. Plus a kicker. lol

Same process then, but will need some good blocking to hold the hull - off the ground and from tilting side to side, will also need a few friends. If blocking is tall enough you might not need to 'tip' the trailer.

 

[Kcmactools1]

I'm hoping to do it without removing the outboard. I just redid the transom and remounted the motor last year. lol. This is a 2000 Starcraft Superfisher. She's a good size boat with a 125 outboard on it. Plus a kicker. lol

I went to the nearest launch with all my materials launched, tied off and did the job in the parking area.

 

[Bailey Boat]

Jack it up, one side at a time. You should only need 1" to 2" of clearance to slide the new bunk in place.....

 

[Capt. Dave Bush]

I had 150hp motor and 24'fiberglass boat. In garage , Jacked 1 side at a time. used 2 long pieces of 2x4 stacked adjacent to bunk to support boat while using jack, used hydraulic jack, lifted carefully to clear boat bunk by 1". pulled old brackets & bunk, then replaced with new parts where required. Duplicated on the other side. Worked fine. CAUTION, blocked wheels etc. to prevent roll of trailer & jack.

 

[thill]

It will work, yes.

Using a floor jack, lower the tongue all the way to the ground, then put, cinderblocks with wood on top, large logs or whatever you want to hold up the back. Then, when you jack the front up as high as it can go, the only thing touching the trailer will be the bow eye. Ready to go, if you only need 6" or so of space.

But if you have access, the easiest way to lift the front is with a cherry-picker/engine hoist and a strap through the bow eye.

Here is a pic where you can see the strap to lift the front with the cherry picker:





If your boat is aluminum, they are so light that it's almost a non-issue if you have lifts and jacks available.

I have also used 2 cherry pickers on the back corners, and left the nose of the boat attached to the winch.

As Capt. Dave mentions above, you might want to chock the wheels well or leave the trailer attached to your truck if you use certain methods, so nothing moves or rolls.

You'll be fine.