So I got this 2001 lowe 1448 with a 1998 25 hp 4 stroke mercury. The motor is just a little heavy for the boat (nothing major, just don't go fast and try to slow down to quick or ur gonna flood). I have plans on adding a front casting deck since the factory one is small, some dry storage for clothes etc...(do more all night catfishing than anything) and floors. I'm looking for some tips to counter act the weight in the back. Like adding foam sheets between the ribs under the floor, adding foam under the battery and gas tank area? I've seem floater boxes, but haven't read up on them much nor know exactly what they do. Thanks for n e info.
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Lowe 1448
- Thread starter Gamakatsu
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reedjj
Well-known member
Adding foam under your floor won't help raise the boat or give it more floatation. It will only help with floatation if the boat is full of water.
you could add the pods to the back of your boat and that would definately help out. Or move some heavier weight up front to counter weight it. Live well, battery, fishing partner, anchor, stuff like that.
When I did mine I used thicker plywood for the floor up front than I did on the mid section for some added weight up there. That plus the front deck helped to even the weight out front to rear. My Cranking battery is monted in the center seat on the passenger side to also counter weight. And I also have a Tolling motor battery that I sometimes use. If Im alone or with someone determines the location of the TM Battery under my front deck. If Im alone I always carry it and I slide it all the way to the left to counter weight me sitting on the right. If my wife is with me I put it just left of center and If I have anyone over 200lbs I put it on my side to bring the weight back my way.
One more thing....I have a 1542 with a 15" transom, I have the 2 stroke 25hp motor @ about 120lbs.https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=17299 When I have a full 6 gallons of gas , me and another person in the boat she sits pretty low in the back. About half the transom is submerged so only about 6-7 inches of it is out of the water. At first it seemed a little low to me and was scary to be that low. I have chopped the throttle at full speed 30mph and not one drop comes over the transom. The only time water comes over is when I put it in reverse and give it a little too much throttle then it shoots up and over the back into the well area. No big deal. These little Jons just sit low. With a little time you will gain some confidence in it and it wont bother you at all.
Just a couple Ideas.
you could add the pods to the back of your boat and that would definately help out. Or move some heavier weight up front to counter weight it. Live well, battery, fishing partner, anchor, stuff like that.
When I did mine I used thicker plywood for the floor up front than I did on the mid section for some added weight up there. That plus the front deck helped to even the weight out front to rear. My Cranking battery is monted in the center seat on the passenger side to also counter weight. And I also have a Tolling motor battery that I sometimes use. If Im alone or with someone determines the location of the TM Battery under my front deck. If Im alone I always carry it and I slide it all the way to the left to counter weight me sitting on the right. If my wife is with me I put it just left of center and If I have anyone over 200lbs I put it on my side to bring the weight back my way.
One more thing....I have a 1542 with a 15" transom, I have the 2 stroke 25hp motor @ about 120lbs.https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=17299 When I have a full 6 gallons of gas , me and another person in the boat she sits pretty low in the back. About half the transom is submerged so only about 6-7 inches of it is out of the water. At first it seemed a little low to me and was scary to be that low. I have chopped the throttle at full speed 30mph and not one drop comes over the transom. The only time water comes over is when I put it in reverse and give it a little too much throttle then it shoots up and over the back into the well area. No big deal. These little Jons just sit low. With a little time you will gain some confidence in it and it wont bother you at all.
Just a couple Ideas.
reedjj said:
X2, If you can swing it, pods would be the way to go along with shifting some weight around. Not quite sure of the weight of that 4 stroke beast, but the boat should easily handle a 25 HP motor.
nathanielrthomas
Well-known member
Sell heavy 4 stroke. Buy light 2 stroke. Not sink. Keep extra money or buy cool stuff.
I think the plywood will help out a lot up front. I may end up making the front a duel livewell area. One for bait, one for keepers. The boat has a small livewell in the middle seat but I'm thinking of sealing it off and making it my dry storage area. Since I primarly catfish, that livewell isn't big enough. I can't sell my motor though! That's the main reason I bought the boat. Maybe I should sell the boat, keep the motor, and buy a bigger boat 
Cory5129
Member
I'm going to be real interested to see how your project moves along. I just started a modification on my 2006 Lowe 1448MT a few days ago. Sounds like we are planning on making some of the same changes. I have a 2003 Honda 20hp four stroke, so my weight issues are similar to yours. I had a small Minn Kota transom mount for trolling and had the battery in the back. With the modification in progress, I got a Minn Kota Edge 45 for the bow, so I'm planning on moving the battery to the front under the deck. I hadn't really thought about it for weight distribution as much as I didn't want to fork out 40 or 50 more bucks for 6 AWG wire to run from the back to front. I've already spent more money than I wanted too. The cost of material has gone through the roof. Depending on where you live, I'd think twice about trading a 4 stroke for a lighter 2 stroke. I fish Lake Mead, and starting next year they're banning 2 stroke motors on the lake. The only exception will be the fuel injected 2 strokes like on the high dollar boats, and even then they must be the new low emission certified motors. If I had enough money for one of those rigs, I wouldn't be here talking about converting my 14' jon boat. :wink:
I know what you mean about cost. If I could do it ne way I want it everything would be gutted and everything done in aluminum with no wood at all. I've got basic plans drawn up and know how I want the boat to look in the end. I'm still figuring out my storage, livewell, etc... a quick run down of what I have planned so far
Repainted solid color with new stickers. May be the original Lowe stickers or a Gamakatsu sticker (only hooks I use, plus its a good looking sticker imo)
Front deck added with storage, trolling battery/spare battery stored, maybe a livewell/bait cooler.
Rear deck covering the battery, gas tank, bilge
Both front deck and rear deck along with the floors I would like to be rubberized, or something non slip and ez to clean.
The bench seats I want carpeted with 2 seat mounts on the back and 2 or 3 on the middle one. I don't want 5 seats in it, but I like options. Keep 2 or 3 seats in the boat and they can be moved as needed, where needed. For seats I am looking at the camo print ones from cabelas, kinda waiting to see if they make a fishouflage version.
I plan on a small switch box for lights, bilge, etc.. and a couple outlets to plug spot lights into. One on the switch box (or control panel) and one up front. With the fishfinder mounted somewhere. The location of both of those items is still a mystery.
For lights I'm looking at a couple blacklights, and a couple of the green lights, along with the running lights.
On the front deck, and somewhere on the back deck I plan on mounting 2 electric winches for anchors. Take the cable off them and put rope on instead. Mount them behind what I call an "anchor buddy". This will make anchoring in certain positions while by myself a lot easier. Harbor freight has 2000lb electric winches for 50$.
Also adding a few rod holders, maybe 9 total. We are allowed 3 rods each and typically fish 3 people in the boat.
I'm just buying stuff I want for the build and putting it back. So I can do it all at once. I have the decking materials, the anchors, control panel box, some of the lights, and other stuff. The good thing about it will be that everything can come out hardware wise and be put in a larger boat sometime in the future.
Repainted solid color with new stickers. May be the original Lowe stickers or a Gamakatsu sticker (only hooks I use, plus its a good looking sticker imo)
Front deck added with storage, trolling battery/spare battery stored, maybe a livewell/bait cooler.
Rear deck covering the battery, gas tank, bilge
Both front deck and rear deck along with the floors I would like to be rubberized, or something non slip and ez to clean.
The bench seats I want carpeted with 2 seat mounts on the back and 2 or 3 on the middle one. I don't want 5 seats in it, but I like options. Keep 2 or 3 seats in the boat and they can be moved as needed, where needed. For seats I am looking at the camo print ones from cabelas, kinda waiting to see if they make a fishouflage version.
I plan on a small switch box for lights, bilge, etc.. and a couple outlets to plug spot lights into. One on the switch box (or control panel) and one up front. With the fishfinder mounted somewhere. The location of both of those items is still a mystery.
For lights I'm looking at a couple blacklights, and a couple of the green lights, along with the running lights.
On the front deck, and somewhere on the back deck I plan on mounting 2 electric winches for anchors. Take the cable off them and put rope on instead. Mount them behind what I call an "anchor buddy". This will make anchoring in certain positions while by myself a lot easier. Harbor freight has 2000lb electric winches for 50$.
Also adding a few rod holders, maybe 9 total. We are allowed 3 rods each and typically fish 3 people in the boat.
I'm just buying stuff I want for the build and putting it back. So I can do it all at once. I have the decking materials, the anchors, control panel box, some of the lights, and other stuff. The good thing about it will be that everything can come out hardware wise and be put in a larger boat sometime in the future.
Cory5129
Member
What are you using for your control panel box? Will it house your fuses, breakers, bus block, ect? I'm getting close to being done with my frame work and have been running the wiring ideas through my head. I'm toying with the idea of putting my 27 series deap cycle battery up front below the deck. The battery is in a Minn Kota power box which is already set up with a 60 amp breaker and two power outlets. I'll connect the trolling motor directly to that via a marinco trolling motor plug. Total length including the wires on the Minn Kota Edge will be no more that 6 or 8 feet. According to Minn Kota's formula on their website 10 AWG should be fine. The OEM wire on the Edge is 10 AWG and I have some 10 AWG I canibalized from an RV extension cord. I may use a small ATV or lawnmower battery in the rear for my lights, fish finder and pump.
What are you planning to do about your wiring? I have been reading posts on this webiste for almost a year and finally decided to join today. There are so many ideas and opinions on this site that as I move along with my modification, I'll pick up on an idea or say "dang, I wish I would've done it that way".
What are you planning to do about your wiring? I have been reading posts on this webiste for almost a year and finally decided to join today. There are so many ideas and opinions on this site that as I move along with my modification, I'll pick up on an idea or say "dang, I wish I would've done it that way".
I personally am no good with wiring. A friend of mine on the other hand is really good with it so I'm going to tell him what I want done and let him wire it. The box its self is a 5"tall x 5" wide x 2.5" deep weatherproof electrical box we use at work. Got a pc of plexiglass I'm going to put all the switches into and then rivit it in place.
I've got pictures of the boat and a drawing of how I want it to turn out. Ill try to upload them but I'm doing my internet stuff via cellphone @tm.
I've got pictures of the boat and a drawing of how I want it to turn out. Ill try to upload them but I'm doing my internet stuff via cellphone @tm.
Thanks. Can't complain for $1500. I had to put a carb rebuild kit, and water pump on it. Changed the oil and filter along with bottom end grease. I do wish the boat was bigger but it is what it is. Here is a pic of what I want the boat to look like for the most part when done. Mine will just have more seats and the winches.
Attachments
Won't have the rod holders or seat bracket on the front deck either. I'm trying to figure out a place to store rods and reels but its not looking good. I don't want to take up anymore floor space to build a locker. I'm looking at installing 3 rod holders on each side and maybe build something that goes over top of the motor out of the way from everything to build holders for trolling also but I want everything else done first
Cory5129
Member
Very similar to what I'm doing except I ran the deck from the middle seat to the existing deck on the front. My bow is a little different in that it has the V bow. There will me a lip there, but I didn't like the deck being so long and high with my kids on board. So far it looks like it's going to give me plenty of room on the deck and storage underneath. I plan on posting some photos at some point.
I read that it's better to make everything square and straight rather than guessing whether it will be level on the water. I'm glad I did, because when I used the middle seat as a reference point, I found out that the left front corner of the seat was riveted almost an inch lower that the other side. I guess they put these boats together rather quickly at Lowe. I had to shim it to make the framework straight. So when you start on your boat, don't asssume the factory measured everything out nice and neat.
I read that it's better to make everything square and straight rather than guessing whether it will be level on the water. I'm glad I did, because when I used the middle seat as a reference point, I found out that the left front corner of the seat was riveted almost an inch lower that the other side. I guess they put these boats together rather quickly at Lowe. I had to shim it to make the framework straight. So when you start on your boat, don't asssume the factory measured everything out nice and neat.
Man, I run the same boat, 'cept I run a 35 'rude and it will fly!!! Like someone mentioned previously the little low sided rascals will surprise you! I've run long distances in water only safe enough for big bass boats and probably am lucky to be alive, but I made it and i'll probably do it again! Something about all that flotation or the angles of the sides? I don't know but ...they work! I have turned over several other boats, but not my little lowe! My buddies all run those 16 or 17 footers and laugh at me at the ramp, but not on the water! With my 35hp i can get way-up on top of the really big waves and just hang-on. THe smaller lowe is much easier to hide and really manuevers around the stumps well. THey do seem to sit low in the water ( even un-loaded) but I'm here to tell ya they get out off the hole extremely fast....great boat...agree?
Yeah its a good boat. I don't have a good take off but that's ok. Ill keep that boat for river purposes and one day buy a 18 or 20 ft tracker grizzly or a strait up bassboat. The wife wants a malibu or centrinium but those babies are high and for fun. I suppose they could be fished out of tho. I'm going to continue to look into the floater boxes in the rear. When the boats finished ill see if it sits any lower and if so then it'll get them.
Man, they just sit low.It doesn't sound like your overweighted at all. It's a lowe! I think my sides are lower than yours and I have a 35 on it! Flotation pods wouldn't work where i live( deep east texas)WE have stumps, lots of stumps, you don't go without gettin on a stump I don't care what you have! Imagine what those pods would look like in just a short time? I wanna raise my motor with a jack plate ( manual) to help with the stumps but what i'm wondering if any of you'll men run jack plates and have trouble with the props coming out of the water in bad weather ( white-capping)?
Cory5129
Member
I just finished the last of my frame work today and cut my plywood decks. Time for water proofing. I too would've loved to use aluminum, but dang it's too pricey, plus I don't TIG weld or know anyone who does. I used all 2x2's for my frame. One thing I learned that I would recommend to you if you go with wood, is make sure you find the driest and lightest wood you can find. I made the mistake of buying 5 pieces from my local Ace Hardware, since I live an hour from a Lowes or Home Depot. I knew something wasn't right when I bought them. Man they felt heavy. I ended up making a trip into Lowes and the difference was night and day. I think the Lowes 2x2's are kiln dried, because they were light as a feather compared to the Ace lumber. Needless to say, I didn't use any of the Ace lumber on my boat. Once I get the water proofer on, I plan on weighing all the individual components to see just how much weight the modification added to my boat. I will try and post a picture for you tomorrow, or you can check out Nick Jones post at this link https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=7167. My framework is very similar to his.
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