My Lund 14' ssv , tiller control is stern heavy with Suzuki 25 hp 4 stroke . moved gas tank forward but still tends to porpoise> understand that hydrofoil is usual solution. Bought an aluminum Whale Tail a while back but never put it on: any suggestions on hydrofoils that worked for you on this type of boat? plastic SE type vs aluminum ? anyone tried the Hydro shield skeg mounted ? any foils that do not require drilling into cavitation plate? Thanks.
TinBoats.net
The original aluminum boat site!
Lund 14' ssv : hydrofoil?
- Thread starter gasper
- Start date
Help Support TinBoats.net:
I’ve put dozens of foils on skiffs to 16’ and now recommend the Attwood ‘gull wing’ design ones, usually < $40 or so, and some Walmarts sell them. The tips of the wings are out of the water when on plane - for less drag. They do need to be bolted to the vent plate.
FWIW I’d NEVER run a small tin skiff without one!
FWIW I’d NEVER run a small tin skiff without one!
Attachments
I've seen allot of FB adds for the Hydro-Shield, which in itself makes me leary. While I can see how it can protect the prop, I'm not a believer on the speed increases. It would have too much drag.
I've used foils but found that Smart Tabs allowed much more flexibility in adjustment. Smart Tabs
I've used foils but found that Smart Tabs allowed much more flexibility in adjustment. Smart Tabs
Last edited:
would you put smart tabs on a small aluminum boat? 14' LUND is not a high performance boat. I'm using it mostly in large saltwater bayside for shallow water fly fishing. the low stern /high bow porpoising is really the issue.
I have them on a 14' Starcraft w/40HP Nissan. Also ran them on my 20' Bowrider w/350 Mercruiser. You can adjust the angle and the amount of pressure holding the tabs down. The engine trim can be adjusted seperatly.
The one small negative s that they dig in when in reverse. This was never an issue for me, but they sells levers so they can be raised.
richg99
Well-known member
I had Smart Tabs on every boat that I owned except one. The boats ranged from 14 to 17 feet in length. All were fiberglass Carolina Skiffs.
Smart Tabs were originally designed for tin boats, though.
The only boat I didn't put them on was mostly restricted to a No Wake lake. They do everything they say they do and more. You can cruise along at much lower speeds, too. Great product! R
Smart Tabs were originally designed for tin boats, though.
The only boat I didn't put them on was mostly restricted to a No Wake lake. They do everything they say they do and more. You can cruise along at much lower speeds, too. Great product! R
Why exactly? On a smallish tin boat 12'-14' 15-40 HP range what are the benifit you see? I've never run one so I have no idea what to expect.
Well, first off, I’ve never seen any 14’ typical skiff w/ cross seats rated for anything > 35hp and usually 30hp on tiller motors.
It is primarily due to excessive bow RISE as one gets the boat up on plane, but it also completely eliminates any proposing at higher RPMs. They also add stability to the hull and in tight turns. Some tin hulls get ‘squirrely’ at WOT and a foil helps keep the boat level, trim and carving the water in turns.
I’ve seen bows rise soooooo high that you can’t even see where you’re going for a few seconds. It can be worse when running against the wind and can be a very dangerous situation. I just helped an older man on my river add a foil onto his 14’ Duranautic with 30hp tiller Johnson this past Summer and he could not be more pleased!
Adding a foil can help in many ways besides keeping the bow down. The boat gets on the plane faster and can stay on plane at a much slower speed, which can help in a chop or in heavier seas or waves.
My old 12’ tin with 10hp OB would not plane easily with 3 aboard, unless one went up to the bow, but the foil allows the hull to plane faster and stay on plane with the 2 seated in the middle seat. Not fast mind you, but at least were were planing (more efficient running attitude). The fin adds ‘stern lift’ which helps the trim.
Overall I find them to make running a small fast skiff a much safer and more enjoyable experience.
Thanks for that info: did not realize smart tabs were an option, will look into that. DaleH confirms that generally hydrofoils should help with a. boat like mine. The Atwoods look good and i already have a Davis Whale Tail, but honestly, drilling into anti cavitation plate makes me nervous. Does anyone have experience with the 'no-drill' Sting Ray or skeg mounted Hydro Shield types? Thanks in advance.
Never liked ANY of the no drill’ options, adds too much drag IMHO.
rockfishnc
Member
Same issue, just got a high bow 16 foot tin boat love that it should be able to handle waves better but the bow sits really high underway. Engine is trimmed all the way down but there is a lot of weight in the bac with the gas, motor, battery, engine and one passenger.
Is a foil or trim tabs a better solution to get the bow lowered?
Many Thanks,
Greg
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2009
- Messages
- 2,396
- Reaction score
- 2,261
- Location
- Perrysburg Ohio
- LOCATION
- Perrysburg Ohio
I would use the smallest hydrofoil that will do the job, I have saw way to many larger units break off the cav plate on the outboard. In the couple of cases I needed one, I made my own from a piece of SS sheet metal .040 thick. It increased the cav plate toward the rear, very little added width. Far less pressure on that cav plate and almost no drag. The big thick, wide, plastic contraptions are the ones that cause the most damage and have the most drag. With a smaller thin SS sheetmetal unit much smaller screws can be used, thus much smaller holes, thus much less breakage issues.
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2011
- Messages
- 522
- Reaction score
- 314
- LOCATION
- SoCal
Another option or in addition to the Gull Wings......
Previous (original) owner of my boat added two 50# ballast bags (weight bags typically used on wake board/ski boats) to the very front of the bow area. He did this for same issues (porpoising) you have. It did a remarkable job to getting the boat on plane quickly when alone steering from stern (tiller). I removed the bags, as I will be replacing the weight with a bow mounted TM and 12V group 27 DC battery.
Previous (original) owner of my boat added two 50# ballast bags (weight bags typically used on wake board/ski boats) to the very front of the bow area. He did this for same issues (porpoising) you have. It did a remarkable job to getting the boat on plane quickly when alone steering from stern (tiller). I removed the bags, as I will be replacing the weight with a bow mounted TM and 12V group 27 DC battery.
Foil - $40 … bullet-proof and they just plane work!
I might opt for the SE Sport 200 on a 16-footer of high horsepower.
Smart Tabs - $100 … non-adjustable while underway.
… and they will KILL you in a following sea state … you do the math …
Tall Tiller
Active member
Seem to be different opinions on the whale tail, hydrafoil, gullwing, slip slider
I recently acquired a 1974 Lund R14, put a 50hp Evinrude on it, that came off a pontoon boat, bought the motor with a whale tail attached. I posted a little about it in the mods/conversion section.
Was told to take it off, that it creates to much stress?
I recently acquired a 1974 Lund R14, put a 50hp Evinrude on it, that came off a pontoon boat, bought the motor with a whale tail attached. I posted a little about it in the mods/conversion section.
Was told to take it off, that it creates to much stress?
Attachments
I know people use the term generally for any hydrofoil but just for clarity in figuring things out: the "Whale Tail" is a one piece aluminum hydrofoil made by Davis Instruments. What is shown in the photo looks like black plastic/composite hydrofoil of the type made by SE Sport or Sting Ray which seem to be widely used so should not cause undue stress. The 40 hp outboard may be more of an issue. I have a 25hp Suzuki 4 stroke on 14' LUND and it's really too heavy for the boat, causes bow rise, etc. that's where the hydrofoil helps.
Tall Tiller
Active member
What type steering on your LUND, tiller or remote?
Tiller. Lund ssv 14 with standard bench seats . Moved gas tank forward toward bow, and put in 'casting deck' in bow section for better balance, helped a little but with engine, battery, and me in back (usually solo), it's till stern heavy. I use an tiller extension handle so I can sit/stand more in center. Think my outboard ( Suzuki 25hp 4 stroke) is just too heavy. DaleH seems to have experience/and suggestions with different hydrofoil options which he posted in earlier in this thread.
Tall Tiller
Active member
Yes, after I posted what steering? thought, maybe I should read for myself?
I am total newbie to the boat scene, But being that the r14 I am building is remote steer, which imo will help out a lot.
Going to also forward mount battery.
Just going to get it water ready and experiment with different adjustments.
Attachments
Last edited:
