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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
New To Me: 1985 PolarKraft CGS1451
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<blockquote data-quote="Axhammer" data-source="post: 510972" data-attributes="member: 16767"><p>Nice boat, it has the same bloodlines as my 1992 Polar Craft MVT-1751. Both are very similar in appearance.</p><p></p><p>A boats length and width is often a factor when max HP rating is determined.</p><p></p><p>There are two other factors that allow for a higher HP rating to be assigned from the factory, when comparing two boats with the same length.</p><p></p><p>A 20” transom and remote steering will allow for a higher HP rating. </p><p></p><p>Your boat appears to have a 15” transom. Your boat doesn’t look like it ever had remote steering, so these two features don’t really come into play concerning your boat.</p><p></p><p>If a company made two identical 16’ boats, that were the same with the exception of the transom height and one having remote steering, the one with the remote steering and long shaft engine would be rated for more HP.</p><p></p><p>If you replace your transom, and your new one ran straight across the top of the stern, without the dip, I’m pretty sure it will measure 20” for a long shaft engine. </p><p></p><p>Since your transom needs work, and you have a LS engine, I would build the new transom to run straight across the stern. This way your engine will be better suited for your boat. </p><p></p><p>Keep that mini jack plate, you may want to use it. After the transom has been replaced and you put the motor back on, you will see where the cavitation plate sits in relationship to the hull bottom. Most engines are a little longer, so they run deeper that actually required.</p><p></p><p> My guess is that mini JP Would be perfect with a 20” transom and a LS engine.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Axhammer, post: 510972, member: 16767"] Nice boat, it has the same bloodlines as my 1992 Polar Craft MVT-1751. Both are very similar in appearance. A boats length and width is often a factor when max HP rating is determined. There are two other factors that allow for a higher HP rating to be assigned from the factory, when comparing two boats with the same length. A 20” transom and remote steering will allow for a higher HP rating. Your boat appears to have a 15” transom. Your boat doesn’t look like it ever had remote steering, so these two features don’t really come into play concerning your boat. If a company made two identical 16’ boats, that were the same with the exception of the transom height and one having remote steering, the one with the remote steering and long shaft engine would be rated for more HP. If you replace your transom, and your new one ran straight across the top of the stern, without the dip, I’m pretty sure it will measure 20” for a long shaft engine. Since your transom needs work, and you have a LS engine, I would build the new transom to run straight across the stern. This way your engine will be better suited for your boat. Keep that mini jack plate, you may want to use it. After the transom has been replaced and you put the motor back on, you will see where the cavitation plate sits in relationship to the hull bottom. Most engines are a little longer, so they run deeper that actually required. My guess is that mini JP Would be perfect with a 20” transom and a LS engine. [/QUOTE]
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New To Me: 1985 PolarKraft CGS1451
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