OMC Kill Switch Diagnosis Q

[thedude]

Wanting to confirm the proper understanding of the kill switch on my 1993 Johnson 48 SPL with remote controls. I was lake testing the boat and pulled the safety lanyard and the outboard continued to run. Reading up on the wiring diagrams, I should test the switch per below:

1. Lanyard Off, Switch Closed from M to M terminals (should have continuity)
2. Lanyard On, Switch Open from M to M terminals (should NOT have continuity).

Also, I plan to test continuity from the black/yellow wire from the controls to the outboard harness using same logic above. I assume that if the ignition key is turning motor off as expected, then i don't need to do any testing from the ignition key wiring to the controls.

Any issues with this plan? Below is a useful link that I found and believe I understand (emphasis on believe i understand). Thanks. The Dude.

https://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ignitionSwitch.html

 

[DaleH]

My OEM service manual from OMC for a mid-90s vintage 60hp has the keyswitch tests done with all wires disconnected. Maybe these pictures from the manual will help you ... ? I'd disregard that the picture shows a tiller test for the lanyard, as I believe the circuitry should operate in the same way.

 

[thedude]

Dale, very good to read it this way. I see now that I need to focus on steps 6 and 7 on the 2nd page and test the continuity with the key is all three positions
- off/on/start.

This confirms what i understood. Continuity from M to M would be correct when 1) key is OFF or 2) key is ON/START but lanyard is OFF. If it passes the continuity tests here, then I'll proceed to testing continuity to the outboard.

 

[DaleH]

You know, from using the links Jim provided in the Engine forum, I bought a PDF of that OEM engine service manual for $12 or so ...

I personally would never trust a Seloc or Clymer manual in gving me accurate info/specs ‘specific’ to my exact OB model. They are only useful less for generic info good for many or a class of motors ...