Quick Question: Switch Panel and Fuse Block -- With or Without Neg Bus?

[TinRiverRunning]

I need to get my Lowe Roughneck wired and would like to order some parts asap. Will really appreciate any suggestions or thoughts you have about this.

It's pretty much a bare bones rig right now. I am going to add bow and stern running lights and a bilge pump.

I will add a 24v trolling motor and two fish finders soon.

No livewell in my boat. Will just use a cooler and portable aerator with alligator clips to the battery, probably.

I was thinking about going with the Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block with 6 circuits and negative bus. I wanted to make sure I would need the negative bus too? I am not entirely clear on whether I should get the regular fuse block or the one that has the negative bus.

Links are for the 6 panel with and without the negative bus.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=336189#

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=2448971#

I thought it would be nice to get a switch panel with a cigarette lighter so I could plug in a spotlight. Sea Ox makes a 3 switch panel with a cigarette lighter plug in that could work. How is the quality of Sea Ox products if you know?

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/switch-panel-with-lighter-and-battery-tester.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwrvv3BRAJEiwAhwOdMxbW4uI-O5hPK75avAVlI1ijh9xIDhWGczji570YjrfLjOr6KhSs6RoCJ84QAvD_BwE

If I don't get the Sea Ox switch panel, I guess I could just run two toggle switches for the lights and bilge for the time being and use a rechargeable spotlight and keep things KISS for the time being.

One thing though. I saw a really nice and compact 2 switch panel on a Crestliner boat that actually would be perfect for my boat. I've gone through like 20-30 different sites trying to find that panel, but I haven't been able to. If you know of one, send the link to that please.

Thanks!!!! Need to order these parts asap so truly appreciate your help with this.

 

[maintenanceguy]

A negative terminal strip makes wiring much easier but I prefer one that's separate from the fuse panel. Trying to get all of the positive and negative wires to fit inside the fuse block is tight.

You can get switch panels that take standard rocker switches and have standard round openings for volt meters, USB chargers, power ports, etc. The advantage is that everything is modular. You will want a momentary single pole switch for your horn, a double pole, double throw switch for your nav. lights, and standard single pole single throw switches for everything else. It's nice being able to pop out one switch and pop in another.

Not suggesting this setup or this brand, I just found the image on the internet that shows what I'm talking about.

 

[DaleH]

SeaOx is nowhere as water resistant as the type shown w/ covered rocker switches.

For a fuse/circuit block, I too prefer a combo pos/neg block, done right & done well, there’s zero issues w/ wiring access. Things switched at the device, like a fishfinder, don’t need a rocker switch on the panel, so determine how many other switched items you need, like lights, etc., for your switch panel size.

 

[TinRiverRunning]

Thanks, appreciate it. I've ordered the blue sea st fuse block with the negative bus.

Will pass on the sea ox switch panel.

I am still looking for a quality and small 2 switch panel, but I may just end up going with individual rocker switches for the running lights and bilge pump at this time.

 

[DaleH]

FWIW New Wire Marine (https://newwiremarine.com/) will make a custom panel any size/color for you. I had them make these, but wire them up myself, as no one will do a better job than me.

Their waterproof, LED backlit, lit-when-ON switches are cool, only $18 each, but they even have a small (also lit) icon of what the device is on the switch face.

I made up this black switch panel to the starboard by buying theIr parts only and then assembling it myself:

 

[gnappi]

Nice stuff Dale.

 

[k13west]

Thanks, appreciate it. I've ordered the blue sea st fuse block with the negative bus.

Will pass on the sea ox switch panel.

I am still looking for a quality and small 2 switch panel, but I may just end up going with individual rocker switches for the running lights and bilge pump at this time.

The Blue Sea Weatherdeck switch panels are very well built and the most weather resistant panels I know of. Fuse protected, with a red/green backlit label. Not as cheap as some of the imported stuff on Amazon, but better quality.

New Wire Marine also makes really good stuff.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

 

[wmk0002]

I'll add if you only need a couple of switches you can make your own 'panel' from a 4"x4" junction box and then surface mount that where its convenient. Blue Sea Systems makes some really nice switches for $10-20 each that you can insert into the junction box cover plate. A 4" cover will hold 3, maybe 4 switches, and you possibly could add a 12V outlet you just may have to add it to the side vs the cover. BTW Blue Sea does sell a dual pole switch that will control both your anchor and navigation lights on one switch - up is anchor/nav on; down is anchor only; middle is off.

Their switch panel as mentioned is very nice too but I think a 4 gang is the smallest they offer and none include a 12v outlet.

One last thing you may want to consider is finding one that mounts in your t-trac. A lot of duck boats have them so they can run the tiller with left hand while holding their OS (Oh sh!t) handles with the right but can still access the switches as well with right hand while running. Custom fabricators do charge a ton for for these, but with a little sheet metal bending and riveting, I'd imagine one could be homemade with a little effort.

 

[KYfisherman56]

I need to get my Lowe Roughneck wired and would like to order some parts asap. Will really appreciate any suggestions or thoughts you have about this.

It's pretty much a bare bones rig right now. I am going to add bow and stern running lights and a bilge pump.

I will add a 24v trolling motor and two fish finders soon.

No livewell in my boat. Will just use a cooler and portable aerator with alligator clips to the battery, probably.

I was thinking about going with the Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block with 6 circuits and negative bus. I wanted to make sure I would need the negative bus too? I am not entirely clear on whether I should get the regular fuse block or the one that has the negative bus.

Links are for the 6 panel with and without the negative bus.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=336189#
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=2448971#
I thought it would be nice to get a switch panel with a cigarette lighter so I could plug in a spotlight. Sea Ox makes a 3 switch panel with a cigarette lighter plug in that could work. How is the quality of Sea Ox products if you know?

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/swi...ijh9xIDhWGczji570YjrfLjOr6KhSs6RoCJ84QAvD_BwE
If I don't get the Sea Ox switch panel, I guess I could just run two toggle switches for the lights and bilge for the time being and use a rechargeable spotlight and keep things KISS for the time being.

One thing though. I saw a really nice and compact 2 switch panel on a Crestliner boat that actually would be perfect for my boat. I've gone through like 20-30 different sites trying to find that panel, but I haven't been able to. If you know of one, send the link to that please.

Thanks!!!! Need to order these parts asap so truly appreciate your help with this.

Hi I put two gang switches in my 89 Alumna Craft 16 ft with a 40 hp Mercury Force Mariner. It's a 1997 model with a short shaft and with power trim. Back to the two Gang switches one for front deck and rear deck. The 4 gang switch is lighted in red, and has two USB hookups and a cig hookup. I measured them and made a square box to mount them in, but before mounting I painted the wooden box to match boat it is Battleship Gray. Then mounted the gang switches to it with a back to it, that I ran screws from the back biard to the deck and all the four corners from top long enough to hold on the switches abd all but still attached to back board. Did the same for rear. But had a door that opens facing the front from side like of deck. There I wired two a Positive and a negative bus which also ran one positive cable and a negative cable to a lithium battery. Also ran wiring from second gang switch in rear of boat in a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe that I painted to. Ran both a positive & negative wire up front to same lithium battery. On each corner of the rear decking is a new 12 volt Marine battery for the outboard motor in a case. And in opposite corner is the second 12 volt Marine battery ran to front rebuilt Minna kota foot controlled trolling motor. And mine already had be rebuilt once, last owner built a deep fairly long metal livewell between both the passenger and driver seat. Works great.