Rubberized Paint coating for deck/floor recommendations?

[JLeephoto]

I'm planning on a remod of my old 14x48 Alumnacraft.
Phase 1: The goal is to replace the old 3/4" ply with something lighter (probably 1.5" foam with a 1/4 ply top) and repaint the entire interior with some type of non-skid (but not too aggressive) rubberized bed liner type coating.
The goal is to make it cooler and quieter and comfortable for my wife/kids.
The boat currently has most of it's factory paint though a few places on the seats are down to bare metal.

I think I'd prefer to spray this on though I have zero experience with air compressors and spray guns.
I'm definitely on a budget or I'd just cover everything with SeaDek and call it good.
-What's ya'll recommendations for a good non-skid coating that I can spray on over painted aluminum without having to sand for days?
-What kind of air compressor will be necessary to get this job done (I'd like to do some FB Marketplace shopping for as small/portable a unit that can still work?
-How much material will I likely need for this boat and to totally cover plywood floors?

Phase 2: Will be to clean the old barnacle residue off the bottom and decide on some kind of bottom paint that I can use to keep them off for a couple weeks at a time during summer and to fill some old screw holes in the sides but that's likely a future post.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[JLeephoto]

Having obsessively read all I can on the topic of painting and non-skid coatings I’m more confused than ever.
But now considering a fresh base coat of a light sand colored durable paint for the inside (but what kind?) before applying KiwiGrip on horizontal surfaces but I don’t know if the texture would be too rough on bare feet or bikini bottoms and
I like to have bikini bottoms in my boats.
Thoughts?


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[DaleH]

Frankly I don't see that material lasting and wearing well ...

I'd use Nautolex marine vinyl down over your floor, from Defender Marine in CT. Likely even much cheaper than all of the above materials and tooling, and available in widths to 72".

Make sure to sell the edge grains of the ply really, really well (multiple coats) and I'd even paint/seal the panels.

Vinyl will be cool, offer great traction, look great and will wear and last for YEARS! MY old boat was 25 years old when sold and the vinyl still looked great!

Anything else ... whether it be carpet, sea dek or rubber paint ... would look like crap at that age.

 

[JLeephoto]

Frankly I don't see that material lasting and wearing well ...
I'd use Nautolex marine vinyl down over your floor, from Defender Marine in CT. Likely even much cheaper than all of the above materials and tooling, and available in widths to 72".
Anything else ... whether it be carpet, sea dek or rubber paint ... would look like crap at that age.

Thanks for that suggestion, I may well do vinyl flooring on the floor panels. Do you glue it down or wrap edge and staple?
Whatever I do for the floors, my bigger concern is that my duck boat green jon boat gets so hot in the summer here that the wife and kids scream as soon as they get in. So, I wanna go with something lighter color that offers protection for the benches and gunnels. I'd also like them to have a better grip when tossing a cast net from the front deck. It's only a matter of time before I go over. :LOL2:

 

[DaleH]

Thanks for that suggestion, I may well do vinyl on the floor panels. Do you glue it down or wrap edge and staple?

Both can be done, really depends on how the floor is affixed and/or if you can lift an egde up to tuck it down and around. If staples are used, they should be Monel or stainless steel and not plain steel.

If you're not removing the floor you can simple glue the floor to the panel and then 'tuck' the edges down into the hull between the bulkheads and the floor edge. Just tuck a long edge, if you only tuck 3/4" or less, that can 'curl' after years and years of use and sun exposure. When I used the tuck method, I tucked or folder over a couple inches, then pinched it down between the ribs and floor, or similar manner. Even if only pinched in a few spots it worked well!

One can also use special stainless steel 'finish washers', see here on this post: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=386061 . NOTE you use 2 at each screw! The 1st one holds the material down and the 2nd one 'spins' on top of the 1st one as you tighten it down, so that the washer against the material doesn't rip or tear it.

I actually have some and could sell you some cheap ... as I'll never use them again ...

 

[DaleH]

Washers ...
,,,,

 

[eeshaw]

That's a really good idea on stacking the washers Dale, I'm going to steal that one!

 

[JLeephoto]

That is a great tip on the double washers. I wish I'd have done that when I added vinyl bumpers to my dock.
The floor will likely be just by 1/2" plywood panels layed on top of foam, epoxy sealed and covered in something like this. I don't plan to secure them down with anything other than a cooler to start with. I'd like to easily be able to pull them to fish out dead shrimp, etc. and it seems that anything screwed into aluminum ribs will strip.

Obsessing over the paint because I really hate painting. Just not enough patience for it. Seriously considering one of those electric airless sprayers like a Graco or Wagner for multiple household projects. Have just never used them and reviews are pretty mixed.

 

[JLeephoto]

Update: I have a source of some old large 4'x8' aluminum signs from a Realestate company. I don't know the thickness yet but seems like a good opportunity to make an aluminum floor. Now my concern is, how could I make this easily removable to retrieve items or to run future wiring, etc.?
I had planned to just use some angled brackets attached to the bottom of the seats to hold down the plywood on either end but am guessing I'm gonna need to rivet or screw the lighter aluminum to the ribs or could I do it the same?

 

[onthewater102]

If the material is on the thinner side you could back it with foam and it'll hold up fine. You could have angle at either end to attach it to the bench, it will just flex more under power as the boat flexes, but not by any margin you should be concerned with.