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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
SeaArk SuperJon 1872MV Tunnel Remodel (All Pics on Pg1)
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<blockquote data-quote="PSG-1" data-source="post: 246282" data-attributes="member: 6937"><p>Unfortunately, I don't have a picture. I wish I did have a picture of that design, it would be much easier than trying to explain. I'll try to draw it out and scan it.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]33847[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I'm a crappy artist, but hopefully, this gives you an idea of what I'm talking about.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]33848[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>The small gap in front of the rear bench seat is where the angle tray fits. If I remember correctly, I used 2 inch aluminum angle for the tray on my boat. Of course, for a wider gap, you could use a piece of 1/8" plate, and a press brake to bend it to a 90 degree angle.</p><p></p><p> The vertical leg of the angle fits flush up against the vertical surface of the bench seat, and the flat leg acts as the drain tray, with the slots cut into it, with mesh or perforated metal secured over each slot. The forward edge of the flat side of the angle will wedge tightly against the vertical surface of the rib directly in front of the bench seat. With it placed in there like this, it catches all the debris before it reaches the motor well/bilge area, keeping it much cleaner, keeping junk from accumulating under the bench seat.</p><p></p><p> You cut the angle to the width of the inside of the gunwale, long enough that it doesn't slip all the way down to the bottom, and so it's just below flush with the level of the inner hull/floor. Since the gunwale tapers inward as it reaches the floor of a boat, this is what keeps it from slipping around, that and being wedged between the bench seat and the rib just in front of it.</p><p></p><p>Again, I wish I had some actual pictures, but my chicken-scratch drawing should give you an idea of what I'm talking about.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="PSG-1, post: 246282, member: 6937"] Unfortunately, I don't have a picture. I wish I did have a picture of that design, it would be much easier than trying to explain. I'll try to draw it out and scan it. [ATTACH type="full" alt="Scan.jpeg"]33847._xfImport[/ATTACH] I'm a crappy artist, but hopefully, this gives you an idea of what I'm talking about. [ATTACH type="full" alt="Scan 1.jpeg"]33848._xfImport[/ATTACH] The small gap in front of the rear bench seat is where the angle tray fits. If I remember correctly, I used 2 inch aluminum angle for the tray on my boat. Of course, for a wider gap, you could use a piece of 1/8" plate, and a press brake to bend it to a 90 degree angle. The vertical leg of the angle fits flush up against the vertical surface of the bench seat, and the flat leg acts as the drain tray, with the slots cut into it, with mesh or perforated metal secured over each slot. The forward edge of the flat side of the angle will wedge tightly against the vertical surface of the rib directly in front of the bench seat. With it placed in there like this, it catches all the debris before it reaches the motor well/bilge area, keeping it much cleaner, keeping junk from accumulating under the bench seat. You cut the angle to the width of the inside of the gunwale, long enough that it doesn't slip all the way down to the bottom, and so it's just below flush with the level of the inner hull/floor. Since the gunwale tapers inward as it reaches the floor of a boat, this is what keeps it from slipping around, that and being wedged between the bench seat and the rib just in front of it. Again, I wish I had some actual pictures, but my chicken-scratch drawing should give you an idea of what I'm talking about. [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
SeaArk SuperJon 1872MV Tunnel Remodel (All Pics on Pg1)
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