I have a trailer i believe if i put a bit of work into it,it may be good to use.Here is my biggest issue.The wheel bolts and nuts are rusted good.What is the best if there is any kind of chemical to put on rusty nuts and bolts to loosen the wheels on the trailer.There on there i mean good.I have a flat tire on one and a rotted tire on the other.I just want to get the whole tire and rim off and put 2 new rims and tires on.Another is the springs,are they rather easy to take off and put on or is there a special way to take them off and put new ones on.The bunks i can do.The jack on the trailer is toast to,rusted to all heck but they have them at walmart for $33.Any help on this would be great,thanks.
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Trailer repair
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kylerprochaska
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I don't know much about trailers, I kind of just work my way through things and learn as I go, but, i know if it were me, I would be worried about the rest of the axle... It might be easier to scrapt he old axle and look into buying a new one or going to your local scrapyard. As long as the frame is still good it would be worth it.
wingsnhammers
Well-known member
I love PB Blaster. It is a very good penetrating lubricant. Spray it on the wheel bolts or nuts several times over a few hours and then go break them loose. Simple as that. The springs are easy. You will need to make sure to order or buy the correct length and the correct eye configuration. Some have a slip-leaf arrangement where the front is held captive in a channel and the rear has a traditional through-eye for bolting. Etrailer.com has a good leaf spring section that tells you how and where to measure to make sure you get the correct leaves. At a MINIMUM, pull the hubs and check your inner seal, grease, bearings, races, and spindle. Chances are good that the spindle is good. If it is, you probably don't need to replace the axle. If your bearings have abnormal wear or play, you might wanna replace them. If the grease is milky, that means that water was introduced. This is not good, and usually means that you will need to replace some parts. If you have to replace all the races and bearings, do yourself a favor and just buy new hub kits. I spent $80 replacing bearings, seals, and races just to crack a hub at the very end. I ended up buying two brand new hubs with bearings for under $100. I think any auto parts store will sell them, but I got mine from an O'Reilleys.
Transmission fluid and acetone mixed about 50-50. It works great for a penetrating oil if you have it on hand. This is what I used for years when I was a maintenance mechanic. We had to take all kinds of stuff apart that has sat for years outside and in every kind of condition you could think of. Heat is also your friend if you have a torch. Just keep it away from the bearings and seals.
mtydg
Active member
sea Foam has a rust buster out that works well. As some one else said in an earlier post, spray sever times over a few hours. You will get them loose!
Better idea, as I have done many times, don't worry about the wheel bolts. Just take the whole hub off, scrap it and buy new ones. The center cap will come off, under there you will find a nut that is probably secured with a cotter pin, take it off and the whole hub and wheel comes off. Chances are your axle is just fine, you just need new hubs.
earl60446
Well-known member
Along with what jethro said, I was gonna suggest to you to just put a big bar on that socket and break those lugnuts and studs off. Why mess with those rusty things, pound them out of the hub and replace with new.
Tim
Tim
Personally I would figure up how much it's going to cost for all the repairs before I started. I know around here there are quite a few trailers on Craigslist for as little as $150 that might only need some new lights. As a reference point my 2013 galvanized EZ Loader trailer was only $800 or $900 brand new.
I have been thinking about just buying a new trailer,i can get a brand new one for a hair over $600 in my area.I think thats the way i'm going to go because a ton of things will need replaced,for the price it will prob cost me the best deal is just spend a few hundred more so i can take care of it from the get go.
SumDumGuy
Well-known member
FWIW I recently bought a new axle and hubs (bearings, included) and it cost a little under $150.
PSG-1
Well-known member
Rusty lug nuts are a PITA. As stated, try PB Blaster, Sea Foam, and even transmission fluid. Soak them, then, soak them again, do this over the course of a couple of days. Then, try an impact gun, or a socket with a breaker bar and a piece of pipe as a cheater bar for more leverage. If this doesn't work, you can try to heat them with a torch.
If all the above fails, the easiest way is to remove the hubcap, pull the cotter pin, unscrew the spindle nut, and remove the hub, tire and rim as one. Once you have them removed, you could try an angle grinder, or better yet, an acetylene torch, to carefully cut through the rusted studs and nuts. This will allow you to remove the rim, and if you do it carefully, you won't cut into the rim, and it can be re-used as long as it's not a rust bucket. Once you have the rim removed from the hub, you can use a hammer and punch to knock out the old studs, and replace them, if the hubs are still in good condition. If not, then you might want to go ahead and replace them.
If all the above fails, the easiest way is to remove the hubcap, pull the cotter pin, unscrew the spindle nut, and remove the hub, tire and rim as one. Once you have them removed, you could try an angle grinder, or better yet, an acetylene torch, to carefully cut through the rusted studs and nuts. This will allow you to remove the rim, and if you do it carefully, you won't cut into the rim, and it can be re-used as long as it's not a rust bucket. Once you have the rim removed from the hub, you can use a hammer and punch to knock out the old studs, and replace them, if the hubs are still in good condition. If not, then you might want to go ahead and replace them.
nomowork
Well-known member
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=330901#p330901 said:
Might not be a bad idea and you'll have peace of mind. I bought a brand new trailer for a glass boat which cost $1400 where I live. The trailer that it replaced didn't pass the hammer test. :shock:
I found a brand new 2014 magic tilt trailer for $575,no jack but walmart sells them for $30.I only live 10 min from the ramp i go to and if thats packed i go to my other ramp which is only 15 min away.I saltwater fish,i actually live on the gulf but the dock were i live is in no shape to stand on and leave a boat on.I found a cherry trailer for $725 that if i decide to upgrade to a 16ft aluminum boat,which i want to i don't have to go buy another trailer.I had a new trailer a few yrs ago but i had to sell it with my boat for financial reasons,i'm sure we all been there before.When i get it i put lithium grease on every bolt and nut,all over the leaf springs and the major parts that tend to rust first.I did that to my last trailer and it never got any rust on it at all,i mean none.
I believe in taking care of things especially my toys.
I believe in taking care of things especially my toys.
Well i got the springs done,new tires and rims,new bunks,new lights,new jack and a front support,the total cost was near $450,a new trailer like mine is near $800 plus dollars so for the $450 i spent it's darn near new.
