Trailer Setup Help

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GreenBeast35

Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2024
Messages
10
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Location
Summerville South Carolina
LOCATION
Summerville South Carolina
I’m new to boating and could really use some trailer setup advice.

Thanks in advance!

Bought a boat used and the previous owner had the stern and bunks hanging about 2’ off the back of the trailer. I replaced the bunks and moved them and the boat in a foot. Does this look like a good position?
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He also attached the stern strap’s directly to the bunk boards. Would you recommend I do that or wrap them underneath to the trailer frame?
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Welcome to TinBoats!

The rule of thumb that everyone should be aware of is to have 10% to 15% of the total weight (boat & trailer) on the hitch. Less than 10% is dangerous. More than 15% can cause vehicle payload and control issues. That rig is so light I personally wouldn't worry too much going over 15% unless the tow vehicle doesn't have much tow capacity.

The transom should be fully supported by the bunks, which yours is. I would shorten them to no more than an 1" past the transom.

Transom tie downs -- mine go to the rear trailer cross frame but I don't have near that much set-back. You could put a strap over the boat crosswise and attach it to the trailer frame. Honestly, I'm not sure of the best practice and would defer to others with a similar set up.

I note the side bunk/light brackets seem to be kind of hanging down from the connection point on the rear trailer cross frame. You could add a u-bolt near the outside of the cross frame to give them more support.
 
I would also look at he side guides, are they close to the hull ? I keep mine tight, within a half inch of touching the widest part if the boat. You want to keep your boat as close to center as possible when loading on a windy day. Your tie downs need to keep the hull in contact with the bunks at all times ! Bouncing on the bunks can damage the hull. If possible, I prefer the across the hull straps over the transom straps on smaller boats. Safety chain on bow should have very little play, I would adjust yours to remove the play and consider moving it down to the tongue .....it is supposed to keep the bow from lifting up in case of a winch strap failure.
 
Welcome to TinBoats!

The rule of thumb that everyone should be aware of is to have 10% to 15% of the total weight (boat & trailer) on the hitch. Less than 10% is dangerous. More than 15% can cause vehicle payload and control issues. That rig is so light I personally wouldn't worry too much going over 15% unless the tow vehicle doesn't have much tow capacity.

The transom should be fully supported by the bunks, which yours is. I would shorten them to no more than an 1" past the transom.

Transom tie downs -- mine go to the rear trailer cross frame but I don't have near that much set-back. You could put a strap over the boat crosswise and attach it to the trailer frame. Honestly, I'm not sure of the best practice and would defer to others with a similar set up.

I note the side bunk/light brackets seem to be kind of hanging down from the connection point on the rear trailer cross frame. You could add a u-bolt near the outside of the cross frame to give them more support.
Hey thanks! This is really helpful information. I will make the changes you suggested. I appreciate it.
 
I would also look at he side guides, are they close to the hull ? I keep mine tight, within a half inch of touching the widest part if the boat. You want to keep your boat as close to center as possible when loading on a windy day. Your tie downs need to keep the hull in contact with the bunks at all times ! Bouncing on the bunks can damage the hull. If possible, I prefer the across the hull straps over the transom straps on smaller boats. Safety chain on bow should have very little play, I would adjust yours to remove the play and consider moving it down to the tongue .....it is supposed to keep the bow from lifting up in case of a winch strap failure.
Hey thanks for responding! Yeah the side guides are much farther away than yours. That makes sense I’ll move them in. Do you have a pic of the safety chain on the tongue I can reference? Thanks!
 
I forgot to ask about the fact that the boat sits higher up in the front. Does that matter much?


I'm not sure, hence my question in post #4. Seems reasonable it should sit level. Truth is I am simply not sure how
much of an issue this might be. Hopefully others will chime in. If you do move the roller forward to lower the bow, make sure the boat won't be sitting on the trailer fenders.

BTW, You mention being new to boating so I'll mention the following. Don't undue the bow strap at the ramp until the transom is well over water. You don't want the boat sliding off while backing down the ramp. There are pic's all over the internet showing this can happen and especially if braking is involved.

Additionally, a lot of loading problems at the ramp happen because the trailer is backed too far into the water. After a few times you will have a good feel for how far to back in. I use the waterline on my side bunks as a guide to the correct depth. Of course, different ramp angles will require adjustment. You will get a feel with a little experience. This is not a problem launching the boat. If you back in too far the boat will simply float away. Make sure you have a line attached (I prefer not to explain why I mention this).

Backing a trailer is counter intuitive until you get used to it. Basically you turn the steering wheel opposite the way you want the rear of the trailer to go. Facing forward, turn the steering wheel left for the trailer to go to your right (passenger side) and turn it right for the trailer to move to your left (driver's side). Here is where most get into a predicament. After the trailer starts to move in the desired direction, you need to turn the wheel back otherwise it will keep turning until it is at an extreme angle. Then you will have pull up and try again. Remember it is easy to make it turn more. Go slow and make small moves.

If you happen to find yourself in Australia or England, this won't work because their steering wheel is on the wrong side of the vehicle! :):):)

Sorry to be so wordy. Been cooped up inside all day because it is 105 outside. Might be going a little stir crazy.
 
I have a set up similar to yours @GreenBeast35 . The position of the boat looks fine. First off, if the bunks could be lying flat, then they should be. It appears you have 2 x 4 material on their edge. The bunks at the back appear to extend past the stern and that's good. It will be advantageous to have the bunks extend past the rise at the bow to help prevent denting the underside of the boat. The belly roller should just be removed. It was probably meant for a V bottom boat. It's not necessary for this application and may cause damage to the underside of the craft.
The straps you are referring to I assume are for strapping the boat to the trailer. Use 2 ratchet straps at different points to hold the boat on the trailer. I wouldn't attach the straps to the bunks but rather to the trailer frame. You can make attachment points on your trailer as desired. Just be sure you don't over tighten the straps as you're not tying down a load on a flat bed just a light tin boat.
I'll take some pics of my set up to give you some guidance and post them later today. Stay tuned to this forum.
 
I'm not sure, hence my question in post #4. Seems reasonable it should sit level. Truth is I am simply not sure how
much of an issue this might be. Hopefully others will chime in. If you do move the roller forward to lower the bow, make sure the boat won't be sitting on the trailer fenders.

BTW, You mention being new to boating so I'll mention the following. Don't undue the bow strap at the ramp until the transom is well over water. You don't want the boat sliding off while backing down the ramp. There are pic's all over the internet showing this can happen and especially if braking is involved.

Additionally, a lot of loading problems at the ramp happen because the trailer is backed too far into the water. After a few times you will have a good feel for how far to back in. I use the waterline on my side bunks as a guide to the correct depth. Of course, different ramp angles will require adjustment. You will get a feel with a little experience. This is not a problem launching the boat. If you back in too far the boat will simply float away. Make sure you have a line attached (I prefer not to explain why I mention this).

Backing a trailer is counter intuitive until you get used to it. Basically you turn the steering wheel opposite the way you want the rear of the trailer to go. Facing forward, turn the steering wheel left for the trailer to go to your right (passenger side) and turn it right for the trailer to move to your left (driver's side). Here is where most get into a predicament. After the trailer starts to move in the desired direction, you need to turn the wheel back otherwise it will keep turning until it is at an extreme angle. Then you will have pull up and try again. Remember it is easy to make it turn more. Go slow and make small moves.

If you happen to find yourself in Australia or England, this won't work because their steering wheel is on the wrong side of the vehicle! :):):)

Sorry to be so wordy. Been cooped up inside all day because it is 105 outside. Might be going a little stir crazy.
Hey all good! I wondered that about the bow strap on launch. I’ve seen a lot of YT videos where people unstrap it beforehand so that’s great info.
 
I have a set up similar to yours @GreenBeast35 . The position of the boat looks fine. First off, if the bunks could be lying flat, then they should be. It appears you have 2 x 4 material on their edge. The bunks at the back appear to extend past the stern and that's good. It will be advantageous to have the bunks extend past the rise at the bow to help prevent denting the underside of the boat. The belly roller should just be removed. It was probably meant for a V bottom boat. It's not necessary for this application and may cause damage to the underside of the craft.
The straps you are referring to I assume are for strapping the boat to the trailer. Use 2 ratchet straps at different points to hold the boat on the trailer. I wouldn't attach the straps to the bunks but rather to the trailer frame. You can make attachment points on your trailer as desired. Just be sure you don't over tighten the straps as you're not tying down a load on a flat bed just a light tin boat.
I'll take some pics of my set up to give you some guidance and post them later today. Stay tuned to this forum.
Awesome thank you!
 
For my fellow TinBoat members -- would you move the bow roller forward?
Tough call on that, because it won't hurt anything the way it is unless the owner is going to climb in and jump up and down alot. I am a big believer in more rollers are better. If he needs some tongue weight, the whole boat can move forward, better to have to much than to little ! My only concern is the safety chain itself. They work best when one end is attached to the trailer tongue then the other end up to the bow eye with little slack. The idea is to stop the bow from lifting and moving forward if the winch strap breaks.
 
Something I should point out from personal experience, consider using an eye and a clip on type snap in place of the carriage bolt and S hook. Have had your type of setup come unhooked in a stiff wind while traveling down the highway on more than one occasion ! And by having a snap hook, it won't unhook itself while attracting the strap on the opposite side. Have been known to throw around a few unpleasant comments when I have to keep running back and forth getting that end of the strap in place.....
 
Looks fine, as long as it has decent tongue weight. If not, scoot the winch post forward 4" and see if that gives you enough weight. On a little boat like that, 75 lbs should give a stable ride.

I like mine sitting a little nose-up on the trailer too. Makes draining the boat easier and if you keep the plug out, you shouldn't have to worry about water sitting in the boat.
 
Looks fine, as long as it has decent tongue weight. If not, scoot the winch post forward 4" and see if that gives you enough weight. On a little boat like that, 75 lbs should give a stable ride.

I like mine sitting a little nose-up on the trailer too. Makes draining the boat easier and if you keep the plug out, you shouldn't have to worry about water sitting in the boat.
Awesome thanks! Is there a cheap way to weigh the tongue?
 
Awesome thanks! Is there a cheap way to weigh the tongue?
First you need to know what the boat and trailer weigh. Then, use a bathroom scale. I would set the scale on a block or some such item and then set the tongue on the scale.
You can get the weight of the boat and trailer at a truck weigh scale that's not gov't owned.
 
Turn the bottom of the steering wheel in the direction you want the boat to go, and do maybe quarter turns only.

If it gets too sideways, just pull it up the ramp till it's straight and start over.

And as someone else said, backing in too far to load makes getting your boat back on trailer too hard, as it wants to float everywhere. The bunks on the boat are there to guide the boat on straight. Try maybe 1/2 of the bunks in water.
 
Turn the bottom of the steering wheel in the direction you want the boat to go, and do maybe quarter turns only.

If it gets too sideways, just pull it up the ramp till it's straight and start over.

And as someone else said, backing in too far to load makes getting your boat back on trailer too hard, as it wants to float everywhere. The bunks on the boat are there to guide the boat on straight. Try maybe 1/2 of the bunks in water.
 

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