Where to start?

[whitetailhntr]

I have a 15hp Johnson that runs great once its warmed up but takes 10 pulls to get it started when cold. Most of the time i have to put it in gear and turn the throttle jus enough to not engage the stop ear on the flywheel to make it start. Any suggestions on where to start to make this a little friendlier to start? Thanks

 

[richg99]

There are way smarter people than I that will soon pipe in....but most engines have a way to increase the fuel flow without putting it into gear.

The choke system does that. Have you looked at that setting?

richg99

 

[whitetailhntr]

Setting for the choke?

 

[richg99]

Remember that I know less than many on here, but..

.I normally put full choke on until the engine starts... Then slowly back the choke off...

 

[whitetailhntr]

Remember that I know less than many on here, but..

.I normally put full choke on until the engine starts... Then slowly back the choke off...

Even with doing that still issues

 

[Pappy]

First thing to do is visually check and see that the choke blade is fully closing. If someone has been into the carburetor there is a chance the black plastic choke knob/shaft is upside down. If it is then there is a chance it is not closing.

 

[Gamefisherjon]

^ ive seen it happen as well, i would search for pictures of your engine models carb assembly on the internet and look for something obvious or put on backwards or wrong, if you verify that the carb is correct try pumping the inline primer ball more before you try and start the engine


94 xlt 5speed 3.0v6

 

[richg99]

I've always has good luck by putting in new, gapped, plugs.

richg99

 

[RandysJav]

92 OCTANE fuel. Made my 1988 Evinrude 2-stroke 9.9 go from a ten pull to a three pull. Will never use low octane ever again. Randy

 

[whitetailhntr]

92 OCTANE fuel. Made my 1988 Evinrude 2-stroke 9.9 go from a ten pull to a three pull. Will never use low octane ever again. Randy

Ill try that

 

[whitetailhntr]

Recoil rope broke now....uhhhh the issues

 

[onthewater102]

Octane rating shouldn't matter for startup.

 

[bonz_d]

I'm thinking it has a fuel issue and may need the carb cleaned. Primarily the low speed idle circuit. We have a 1960 18hp Johnson and a 1969 9.5hp Johnson and both of those normally start on the 1st pull after they've been run for the 1st time each season.

Also check the spark with an open air gap spark tester. A good spark will be bright blue and jump a 1/2" open gap. These testers can be found at any auto parts store for about $10.00

 

[whitetailhntr]

Is there a certain size pull rope i need? Thickness wise? Or will any work?


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[Pappy]

Am thinking it is 5/32" but don't shoot me if I am wrong! Going off of memory only.

 

[whitetailhntr]

Am thinking it is 5/32" but don't shoot me if I am wrong! Going off of memory only.

That is correct I found it on another forum. It's the same as number five lawn mower rope


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[whitetailhntr]

Will need 68.5 inches


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[rebeldrummer96]

I have a 15hp Johnson that runs great once its warmed up but takes 10 pulls to get it started when cold. Most of the time i have to put it in gear and turn the throttle jus enough to not engage the stop ear on the flywheel to make it start. Any suggestions on where to start to make this a little friendlier to start? Thanks

rebeldrummer96 said:
This is unrelated but couldn't find a thread closer to the issue. I have an 85 15hp and the bolts holding the midsection to the pivot shaft keep loosening up and I can figure out how to pull the motor off the pivot shaft. I am able to tighten 2 out of the 3 bolts from the sides by removing the front lower cowling bolt on each side. The 3rd bolt is tucked under the powered towards the front. Any idea how to access these bolts better so I can put thread locker on them?

 

[oilsmoke]

This is an old post but...

Lower octane fuel should fire easier than high octane fuel due to its higher volatility level

Start with the basics
Check the compression make sure you have a healthy motor there.

Then test the spark, it needs a bright blue spark on both plugs.
Make sure the plugs are gapped correctly as well.

My 15hp, which rarely gets used will start on the second or third pull when cold after sitting for months. But will fire on one pull when warm.

Make sure the idle circuit and fuel metering circuits are clean in the carb.
Make sure that the choke does indeed close on full choke but if your issue is hot starting, this likely isn't the problem.
Make sure there are no air leaks in the fuel system, from the tank to the carb.
Clean and check the fuel pump, diaphragms do get old and brittle with age and from ethanol fuels.

For rebeldrummer96,
Get hold of a part break down, you likely have a pair of rotted rubber upper mounts.
To replace those your looking at dropping the lower unit, then removing the power head to get to the pair of mounts at the top of the mid section. Not a fun job on an older motor but certainly doable. The biggest issue is usually corroded and seized bolts.

 

[rebeldrummer96]

This is an old post but...

Lower octane fuel should fire easier than high octane fuel due to its higher volatility level

Start with the basics
Check the compression make sure you have a healthy motor there.

Then test the spark, it needs a bright blue spark on both plugs.
Make sure the plugs are gapped correctly as well.

My 15hp, which rarely gets used will start on the second or third pull when cold after sitting for months. But will fire on one pull when warm.

Make sure the idle circuit and fuel metering circuits are clean in the carb.
Make sure that the choke does indeed close on full choke but if your issue is hot starting, this likely isn't the problem.
Make sure there are no air leaks in the fuel system, from the tank to the carb.
Clean and check the fuel pump, diaphragms do get old and brittle with age and from ethanol fuels.

For rebeldrummer96,
Get hold of a part break down, you likely have a pair of rotted rubber upper mounts.
To replace those your looking at dropping the lower unit, then removing the power head to get to the pair of mounts at the top of the mid section. Not a fun job on an older motor but certainly doable. The biggest issue is usually corroded and seized bolts.

I've seen a video of the motor mount issue. I don't think that's my issue because once I tighten the bolts on top of the swivel shaft, the play is gone. The problem I'm having is they keep vibrating loose. Also i can't access the 3rd bolt due to it being tucked under the motor towards the bow. So basically I just need to know how to access those 3 bolts from the top so I cam pull em out and put some blue locktite on em.