Will 3/16 rivet replace these?

[CalicoJack]

I am trying to replace leaky rivets but don't know the type or size of them (they go from the bottom of the boat and through the ribs).
I bought a rivet gun that takes 3/16 blind rivets...would those even work?
I don't have the tools for anything bigger.

 

[airshot]

Need to measure the hole those old rivets come out of....

 

[Tin Man]

They look similar to the rivets on my boat. I believe they are "Brazier" head solid rivets. I've read that most rivets on our smaller tinnies are 3/16" Brazier head solid rivets. Solid rivets are installed by "bucking" them. This is accomplished using an air hammer/air rivet gun, the correct Brazier head rivet tool that attaches to air hammer, and a bucking bar/ piece of flat steel. DaleH has posted very good info on tools and the bucking process.....

BTW...blind rivets are not used below the water line. Blind/Pop rivets are lighter weight and typically used in non-structural areas above waterline....flooring, hatches, livewells, consoles, etc.

https://www.tinboats.net/threads/3-16-brazier-head-rivet-tool-to-set-solid-rivets-10-or-13.41248/
https://www.tinboats.net/threads/solid-rivet-advice-needed.45596/

 

[LDUBS]

Before going to the trouble to removing and replacing them, would it be worthwhile to try to re-buck the existing solid rivets? I don't know the answer. Just tossing it out there.

 

[DaleH]

I am trying to replace leaky rivets but don't know the type or size of them (they go from the bottom of the boat and through the ribs).
I bought a rivet gun that takes 3/16 blind rivets...would those even work?
I don't have the tools for anything bigger.

FWIW I have some 1/4" diameter aluminum "high shear' blind rivets that could be used in that one location. These equal the shear strength of set 3/16" 1100 alloy F-type rivets most boat makes use.

The mandel is likely a 1/8" or 3/32", which most hand rivet tools will tpyically accomodate, but I use the large 'A'-Frame rivet tool to set them (see photo), as you want them set in a looooong slow squeeze (where, yes, sometimes to ratchet up on the mandrel).

But I could sent you 4 for FREE, if you want to try them with your hand tool ... but your hands may ache afterwards ... lol!

 

[CalicoJack]

Before going to the trouble to removing and replacing them, would it be worthwhile to try to re-buck the existing solid rivets? I don't know the answer. Just tossing it out there.

I think the PO already did that and cracked the aluminum on one of them..

 

[Tin Man]

CJ spotted it.....Upon closer inspection, both rivets appear to have aluminum hull cracks . That I would believe will take more work than simply adding a new rivet. I'll defer to those with more alum experience.....but I believe something like this:

1. Stop crack from spreading (tig weld)?
2. Repair existing crack (tig weld)?
3. New solid rivet with sealant?

NOTE: Are cracks all the way through hull, as I do not see them on inside...they may be hidden under stringer?

Question: Is this crack from rivet stress on hull, rivet set to hard with air hammer/air rivet tool, or?
I fear this most if I were to replace a solid rivet....air hammer hammers to hard and stresses/cracks hull

 

[CalicoJack]

CJ spotted it.....Upon closer inspection, both rivets appear to have aluminum hull cracks . That I would believe will take more work than simply adding a new rivet. I'll defer to those with more alum experience.....but I believe something like this:

1. Stop crack from spreading (tig weld)?
2. Repair existing crack (tig weld)?
3. New solid rivet with sealant?

NOTE: Are cracks all the way through hull, as I do not see them on inside...they may be hidden under stringer?

Question: Is this crack from rivet stress on hull, rivet set to hard with air hammer/air rivet tool, or?
I fear this most if I were to replace a solid rivet....air hammer hammers to hard and stresses/cracks hull

Or a good dose of flex seal

 

[CalicoJack]

CJ spotted it.....Upon closer inspection, both rivets appear to have aluminum hull cracks . That I would believe will take more work than simply adding a new rivet. I'll defer to those with more alum experience.....but I believe something like this:

1. Stop crack from spreading (tig weld)?
2. Repair existing crack (tig weld)?
3. New solid rivet with sealant?

NOTE: Are cracks all the way through hull, as I do not see them on inside...they may be hidden under stringer?

Question: Is this crack from rivet stress on hull, rivet set to hard with air hammer/air rivet tool, or?
I fear this most if I were to replace a solid rivet....air hammer hammers to hard and stresses/cracks hull

My guess: it looks like it was set to hard with an air tool.

 

[DaleH]

Took a closer look ... sorry ...

1) Wet them with West System's G-Flex 650, tin properly prepped/primed of course ....

2) Re-buck them whilst wet and curing ....

3) Reseal again with G-F 650 once the 1st coat dries. Maybe a few coats ...

4) Paint to cover the epoxy

Read my posts on here about using G-F 650, inclusing the PDF from West which shows how much it will flow when the tin is slowly warmed with a hair dryer.

 

[CalicoJack]

Took a closer look ... sorry ...

1) Wet them with West System's G-Flex 650, tin properly prepped/primed of course ....

2) Re-buck them whilst wet and curing ....

3) Reseal again with G-F 650 once the 1st coat dries. Maybe a few coats ...

4) Paint to cover the epoxy

Read my posts on here about using G-F 650, inclusing the PDF from West which shows how much it will flow when the tin is slowly warmed with a hair dryer.

G-Flex 650 ordered

 

[DaleH]

I use it everywhere, even around the house!

Had some cracks in the bricks and concrete on the front stairs. I put in some of that special fine ‘polymeric’ sand used for pavers, then dripped in some G-Flex 650 … since it is flexible … repeated both, then topped it all off with some more of that finishing ‘sand’ and now … no more water penetration, hence no more cracks!