Hey guys i had a question about wiring up my jon boat for lights etc. I drew up a diagram of what i think is right and wanted you guys to see if yall could spot anything i need or dont. I know i need a switch, fuse panel, main switch, and the ff. This is my cranking battery for my outboard. I have a separate Battery that Just runs the TM. This diagram is just so i can get an idea of how to set up. Once i know how to wire the boat ill then worry about specific products and what not. Thanks for all the help yall have provided guys.
TinBoats.net
The original aluminum boat site!
Wiring Suggestions
- Thread starter lgpjr49
- Start date
Help Support TinBoats.net:
What is the main switch for? I assume to cut the power to the electronics but why do you need it? The switch box you have in the picture has fuses so the fuse block would be pointless. If you are only going to have navigation lights and a fish finder I would wire directly to battery with a fuse on the positive wire of each electronic. Then place a toggle switch on the lights.
onthewater102
Well-known member
Also - if you use the post-base style of running lights you can save yourself the cost of the switch panel and just have in-line fuses to each accessory (or a fuse block acting as a terminal block distributing the power)
The fish finder has a switch built into it, and if you've got your post lights stowed then they're not turned on...keeps everything simple on a small boat.
The fish finder has a switch built into it, and if you've got your post lights stowed then they're not turned on...keeps everything simple on a small boat.
In the future I'm going to instal a light on the front for running at night and would like to keep the switch close to me. With that being said, wouldn't it be easier to hVe the switch panel and have them all run from there since, as you pointed out, that panel already has fuses?
With that few of electronics I would wire them directly to the battery with inline fuses. Put a toggle switch on your lights. FF has an on/off button. I have the same setup except I have a bilge pump, livewell fill and livewell aerator along with navigation lights and soon to be two ff's so I went with the fuse block to prevent a bunch of wires being ran to the battery. I have two toggle switches. One for the bilge and one for the navigation lights. The livewell isn't complete but will be on two timers.
It is recommend to have fuses on all electronics. Here is two pics of what I have so far. It is still a work in progress but should be complete sometime next month. The toggle swith is made by Attwood. There will be one on the other side of the boat for the navigation lights when the switch gets here tomorrow. The switch in the pic is for the bilge pump.
I know this is on an old thread but another wiring question. Do I need to run larger wires than needed if I'm running the wire over longe distances ( over 3 feet). Wires from the battery to the fish finder for example.
earl60446
Well-known member
lgpjr49 said:
You are not running far enough on the boat to worry about that for bilge pump, fish finder, nav lights. Your connection to the outboard is charging only, no problem either. If for starting, keep that distance short as you can.
Tim
onthewater102
Well-known member
my reference from USCG
Couple suggestions.
Ditch that main switch. You don't need it. Instead, install a keyed battery disconnect, so you can leave your boat and not worry about anyone (easily) stealing it.
"Marine" electronics are expensive. Unless your going 20 miles offshore, I wouldn't spend the money on it.
Get automotive grade instead. This is the fuse box I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VU9D20
Get a 20amp DC Breaker, and install it right at your battery. Then feed your fuse box from the breaker. That way if something happens to the line between your fuse box and the battery, its not going to make your battery catch on fire.
Next, you need to ground everything. Go to Lowes and buy a ground bar. Its a metal bar with a bunch of screws in it, Its like $5. Mount that to something that ISNT metal, you don't want to ground the boat, you want to isolate the boat.
Next, don't spend the money on that switch panel. Just buy some toggle switches.
My console
Toggle switches for marker lights, headlight, and fish finder, 2 way toggle for the bilge (on and auto with the float switch) and a momentary push button for my horn. You can get a Wolo brand car horn for $10 on amazon. Same price as two air horns, and you'll never run out of air. Its also obnoxious as heck, I've probably been ticking my neighbors off because I've been annoying my wife with it. I also installed a voltage meter, which is nice for knowing if your battery is low (around 11.5 you need to start worrying about not being able to start your engine). The LED readout voltage meter was like $3 on ebay, but I had to wait a month for it to ship from China.
Ditch that main switch. You don't need it. Instead, install a keyed battery disconnect, so you can leave your boat and not worry about anyone (easily) stealing it.
"Marine" electronics are expensive. Unless your going 20 miles offshore, I wouldn't spend the money on it.
Get automotive grade instead. This is the fuse box I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VU9D20
Get a 20amp DC Breaker, and install it right at your battery. Then feed your fuse box from the breaker. That way if something happens to the line between your fuse box and the battery, its not going to make your battery catch on fire.
Next, you need to ground everything. Go to Lowes and buy a ground bar. Its a metal bar with a bunch of screws in it, Its like $5. Mount that to something that ISNT metal, you don't want to ground the boat, you want to isolate the boat.
Next, don't spend the money on that switch panel. Just buy some toggle switches.
My console
Toggle switches for marker lights, headlight, and fish finder, 2 way toggle for the bilge (on and auto with the float switch) and a momentary push button for my horn. You can get a Wolo brand car horn for $10 on amazon. Same price as two air horns, and you'll never run out of air. Its also obnoxious as heck, I've probably been ticking my neighbors off because I've been annoying my wife with it. I also installed a voltage meter, which is nice for knowing if your battery is low (around 11.5 you need to start worrying about not being able to start your engine). The LED readout voltage meter was like $3 on ebay, but I had to wait a month for it to ship from China.
